How to Convert Your Club Car Precedent to Lithium

The Club Car Precedent is one of the most popular golf carts to convert to lithium out there. Some of that has to do with the fact that Club Car built these carts from 2004 all the way until 2018 (and built ALL of them with traditional lead-acid batteries or gas power). In addition, a huge number of Precedent carts started life out on a golf course, put in work years at a country club, and then got sold off cheap to somebody who wanted a cart for the neighborhood. So the aftermarket for Precedent parts is HUGE to support all these owners. And we talk to those owners every single week. The carts are great! Aluminum frames and strong suspension components. But over time, the batteries (and the tires) are what quit.

And when your lead-acid batteries are on the way out, you can feel. You charge overnight only to get ten good minutes of driving before your cart starts power-sagging and struggling up every mild hill between you and your driveway. That’s your batteries telling you they're done. Not to mention, the decline happens slowly - giving you less range and performance for months leading up to your batteries quitting. You can buy another set of lead-acid and do the whole dance again in about six years... or you can put lithium in now and stop thinking about batteries for good.

This guide walks you through our 48-volt lithium conversion on a Club Car Precedent (2008.5 and newer). Most 2008.5+ carts have 6 x 8-volt batteries under the seat (48V). We broke our conversion into 15 steps, and there is nothing in here you need a lift or a shop for. A socket set, a free afternoon or morning, and a friend for the heavy lifting part will get it done.

One thing before we start. The video and most of the step photos below come from our own shop conversion that we did on our Club Car Tempo. The Tempo is built on Precedent bones and the job is the same job, but a few things sit in different places and we call them out as we go with notes under photos. Our Tempo conversion video (below) will still be extremely helpful for you to watch.

Most steps below line up with a chapter in that video, so if you’d rather watch a step than read it, just click the timestamp under that step.

First: Which Club Car Precedent Do You Actually Have?

This is the reason people order the wrong kit. Club Car changed the Precedent’s battery layout partway through production, so before you buy anything: lift your cart’s seat and count your batteries.

If your Precedent is 2008.5 and newer, you will most likely see 6 x 8-volt batteries sitting in a molded battery bucket with dividers between them, with threaded rods with nuts for your hold-downs.

See 6 x 8-volt batteries? You’re in the right place, this guide is for you. That’s the layout Club Car moved to with the redesigned battery bucket, and it became the standard setup on the Precedent.

See 4 x 12-volt batteries instead (with a large divider in the center)? Those are the earlier Precedents, and a few carts built in the overlap years came out of the factory that way too. Club Car’s own 2009 to 2011 owner’s manual documents both layouts side by side, with different hold-down torque specs for each, so don’t assume your year tells you the answer. Precedent-specific video coming soon.

Not sure what year your cart is? Our Club Car serial number lookup walks you through it. 

There’s one more thing to check before you order, and it matters more then the year does. Keep reading.

Why Precedent Owners Are Going Lithium

We sell both. Lead-acid still has its place, but here’s what actually changes when you convert your Precedent to modern battery tech:

• Your cart drops 250 pounds. Six 8-volt lead-acid batteries x 63 pounds each (on Trojan’s own T-875 spec sheet) means your Precedent is hauling roughly 400 pounds of lead around right now. Your lithium kit will clock in around 110lbs. Your springs, your motor and your brakes all notice.
• No more watering. No corrosion crust on your terminals, no watering (topping off) cells. Lithium batteries are sealed and maintained by their own brain (BMS).
• Full power right to the end. Lead-acid power fades the whole time you drive. Lithium works like your cell phone: still giving you full power even when you have 5% charge left.
• Charging is quick. From our own ALLIED install, you’re at 80% charge in about 2 to 3 hours with the rest not taking much longer. Lead-acid needs the charger overnight (about 6 hours just to reach 80%).
• They live 10 years (or more). Lithium, when taken care of will last you 10 years and most warranties are this long too. Fresh lead-acid is 6 years life (neglect them and it’s more like 2-3 years).

Yes, lithium costs more up front. We are not going to pretend it doesn't. If you want the real math on that, our breakdown of what it costs to convert a golf cart to lithium runs the numbers with a 48-volt Precedent as the worked example.

The Part Nobody Warns You About: Your Precedent’s On-Board Computer

Here is the difference between a Precedent conversion and just about every other cart we write about. A lot of these carts have an on-board computer (OBC) under the seat, and it will absolutely stop your lithium conversion cold if you ignore it.

What does it do? Per Club Car’s own PowerDrive charger documentation, the OBC keeps track of how much energy your cart used while you were driving, then tells the charger exactly how much to put back in. That’s why the factory charge plug has three pins instead of two. Two of them are your positive and negative, and the third one is the sensing lead that lets the charger and the computer talk to each other.

This is useless for your lithium conversion because your new lithium pack has a battery management system (BMS) of its own doing that job. Worse, the main pack negative runs through the OBC on these carts, so a cranky computer can take your drive system down with it, not just your charging.

On your Precedent, your on-board computer hides in this same area under the seat. Trace your main negative cable back from the battery pack and look for a small box it runs straight through.

Does your Precedent have one?

Short version, and please read this one twice: check the cart, not the year.

• 2008.5 through 2013. Assume you do have an OBC. These carts came with the PowerDrive charging setup and the computer that goes with it.
• 2015 and newer. Assume you don’t have OBC. Club Car’s ERIC charging system replaced the on-board computer with a smarter controller, and there’s nothing left to bypass.
• 2014, and anything built late in 2013. This is the coin flip. Club Car’s own press release puts ERIC on Precedents built after September 2013, dealer year charts put the switch at 2014.5, and the factory 2014 parts book lists both builds. Both came off the line. So like we said: go look under your seat!

Looking for it takes two minutes. Lift your seat and follow your main negative cable from the battery pack toward the controller. If it passes through a small box on the way, that’s your OBC. If it goes straight to the controller, you’re clear.

What you do about it

You bypass it. Once that bypass is in, your original Club Car charger will not charge the cart anymore. It needs a charger with its own microprocessor. That is a non-issue for you, because your lithium kit ships with its own charger and your old one was never going to work with lithium anyway.

What You’ll Need for Your Precedent Lithium Conversion

(See what comes in the box in our video at 0:30)

The heart of this job is a 48-volt lithium kit that fits the Precedent. Whatever brand you land on, make sure the box includes a way to bolt the battery down (brackets, in the kit we used, more on that in Step 8), a charger built for lithium, and a state-of-charge gauge.

For this install we used:

What we installed in this guide

ALLIED 48V 105Ah BIG BOX Lithium Kit

Drop-in ready for a lead-acid Club Car Precedent. One pack, one charger, and the bolt-down brackets your Precedent’s bucket needs.

• 51.2V and 105Ah, good for about 30 to 45 miles per charge
• One 108 lb pack takes the place of all six lead-acid batteries
• Waterproof 15 amp lithium charger, state-of-charge meter and Bluetooth app in the box
• 10-year ALLIED warranty (first 3 years at no charge, years 4 through 10 prorated)

Price: $2,248.95 $2,799.99 (you save $551.04)

See the Kit

Not sure it’s the right size for your cart? Call us at 1-844-422-7884.

Here’s what came in our ALLIED box (most 48V 105Ah kits look a lot like this):

• 51.2V 105Ah lithium battery - one 108 lb pack that replaces all six of your old batteries
• Battery cables
• Mounting brackets that the battery’s feet bolt onto (your pack sits up on them instead of down in the bucket)
• On-board lithium charger - a 15 amp charger that mounts right in your battery bay and plugs into any wall outlet
• State-of-charge meter, the gas gauge for your new battery
• Battery strap for hauling the old lead-acid batteries out (nice touch, ALLIED)
• Hardware packet with nylon lock nuts, big washers, terminal covers, and the CAN and RS485 harness

There’s two add-ons worth thinking about before you check out.

• A 110V charge receptacle (about $85) that swaps into your factory charge port, so any extension cord plugs in right up front. We put one in on all of our conversions.
• A 48V to 12V voltage reducer if your Precedent runs 12-volt stuff like lights, a horn, or USB ports. The full install is in its own section at the bottom of this guide.

We carry Precedent-ready lithium kits from other brands too (ECO Battery, BOLT, MODZ, Trojan and Big Battery), and you can shop all of them in our Club Car Precedent Batteries section.

Tools You’ll Need

Nothing exotic. If you’ve got a basic socket set and a drill you’re most of the way there.

• A socket set and ratchet with a 1/2" socket and a 5/8" deep socket, plus a 1/2" fixed wrench (an impact driver helps if you have one)
• Torx bits: T40 for your rocker panels and kick panel, T30 for your seat base and center dash panel, and T15 for the top of the dash panel
• A Phillips screwdriver for the charge receptacle screws, and a plastic trim tool (or a flat screwdriver, gently) for the trim ring
• A drill with a 5/16" bit, a tape measure and a speed square for the battery brackets
• Four #10 self-tapping screws for mounting your charger
• 2-inch hole saw for your state-of-charge meter
• A buddy. Those old batteries are 60-plus pounds each and the new one is 108 (your ALLIED kit includes a battery strap)
• Wire strippers and a crimper if you’re adding a voltage reducer
• A shop vac, plus baking soda, water and a stiff brush for the acid mess you are probably about to find
• Your phone, for pictures. More on that in Step 2 and it is the best free tool in this list

Step-by-Step: Club Car Precedent Lithium Conversion

Time Required: An afternoon (plus a little extra if your cart needs the OBC bypass)
Difficulty Level: Moderate (the charge port and the kick panel are the fiddly parts)

Fifteen steps. Read the whole thing once before you start, then work it in order.

Step 1: Remove the Seat and Put Your Cart in TOW

(Watch this step in our video at 1:53)

Your Precedent’s seat comes straight up and off its hinges without much of a fight. Set it somewhere safe and grab a work light, because we’re about to make your battery bay real pretty!

Your Run/Tow switch lives behind your batteries, under the seat. Flip it into TOW (Club Car’s own owner’s manual says to do this before you connect or disconnect any battery). That protects you from getting shocked while you work (trust us, it’s happened before). Then double check that the key on your dash is OFF too.

Step 2: Disconnect the Battery Cables

(Watch this step in our video at 2:31)

There’s a lot of cables down there (six batteries’ worth), but don’t worry... only two of them matter for your new lithium setup, your main positive and your main negative. Every other battery cable comes out with your old batteries and never goes back in.

Pro Tip: Before you pull a single nut, take a few pictures of your battery bay with your phone, and get in close on the stack of ring terminals on each main post. If you ever need to double check how something was hooked up, those pictures will save you.

Pull your main negative first, then work through the rest of the battery cables with a 1/2" socket. Put a strip of tape on your main positive and main negative (plus any accessory cables running to them) so they’re easy to find later. On a Precedent, your main positive runs back to the solenoid and your main negative runs back to the controller (through the on-board computer first, if your cart has one), both at the back of your battery bay. You’ll hook them up to your new battery in Step 14.

A lot of Precedents spent years on a golf course before they got to you, so expect some corrosion. If a nut doesn’t want to budge, hit it with a little penetrating oil and give it a minute instead of rounding it off.

See a smaller wire tapped off one of your batteries? That’s usually feeding your lights through a small reducer, so tape and label it too. It does not go back on your new battery, and the voltage reducer section at the bottom of this guide covers what replaces it.

If your Precedent came with Club Car’s optional single point watering system, you’ll see a skinny black hose-line running across the tops of your batteries. It pops right off, so pull it and toss that baby out! Lithium never needs water, and that’s one of the best parts of this whole upgrade.

Step 3: Remove the Battery Hold-Downs

(Watch this step in our video at 3:53)

This one’s quick! There’s one hold-down bar on each side of your battery bank, each one clamping three batteries on threaded rods. Grab a 5/8" deep socket (that’s what ours took), back the nuts off and set the bars aside. Your new lithium battery bolts down a totally different way, so you won’t need these again.

Step 4: Remove the Old Batteries

Time for your daily workout! Your ALLIED kit comes with a battery strap (nice touch), so hook it under the end tabs of each battery and lift them out one at a time. No strap? An old leather belt (or a heavy duty nylon one) through the end tabs will get the job done too (yes, we’ve done it).

Safety Warning: Each of those batteries weighs 60 to 70 pounds, and you’re reaching down into a deep bucket to get them. Lift with your legs and keep the battery close to your body. And grab a buddy to help if you can.

Once your bucket is empty, clean it up with a shop vac. Then go after any acid crust with baking soda, water and a stiff brush, rinse it and let it dry. While you’re down there, check the bottom of the bucket for soft spots or cracks, and look for green fuzz inside your cable ends. If your cables look tired, now is the only easy time you will ever have to replace them.

The floor of your Precedent’s battery bucket is not flat. There’s a raised ridge down the middle and a few bumps, which is exactly why your kit ships with bolt-down brackets. You’ll set those in Step 8.

And don’t throw your old batteries in the trash - drop them off at a battery recycler instead (and get a few bucks for the cores too)!

Step 5: Bypass the On-Board Computer (If Your Precedent Has One)

If you found an OBC back in the section above, this is where it comes out of the picture. With your old batteries out and your cart in TOW, install your bypass kit per the instructions that come with it, which walk you through the connectors on the computer one at a time.

Two things to know before you start. First, the bypass also disables the battery warning light on your dash and the charge history the computer was keeping. That is expected, not a fault. Second, your old Club Car charger is finished, and that’s fine, because it could never have charged lithium anyway.

No OBC on your cart? Skip this step and go straight to Step 6.

Step 6: Remove the Factory Charge Receptacle

(We HIGHLY recommend you watch this step in our video at 8:18)

This is the first big one. And that’s because there are several things you need to disassemble before you can get to the charge port. Your Precedent’s factory charge receptacle is a round three-pin plug mounted to your battery bucket, and its wires run back into your battery bay. You’ll unhook those wires first, then pull the receptacle out through the kick panel.

Part A: Unhook the Charge Receptacle Wires

Only three wires come off the charge receptacle, but where they land depends on your cart. On a Precedent with no OBC (the ERIC carts), per Club Car here’s where each one goes. Snap a picture of each before you pull it.

• Red wire (10-gauge) runs through a small inline fuse and sits on a solenoid terminal. Take the nut off (a 1/2" wrench on ours) and slide the red wire off. Then put the nut and washer right back on and snug them down, because your solenoid still needs a good tight connection.
• Light blue wire is the easy one. It joins your main harness at a bullet connector, so just pull it apart.
• Black wire (10-gauge) sits on the controller’s B- terminal. Take the nut off and lift off only the receptacle’s black wire. If there’s another cable under it, that one stays put, so put the nut back on nice and snug.

Got an OBC cart? Club Car wired yours a little differently. Your red wire sat on battery #1’s positive post, so it already came off back in Step 2. Your third wire is gray and runs to the on-board computer, and your black wire plugs into its own connector. If your bypass kit didn’t already have you unplug those two, unplug them now.

Leave every other wire back there right where it is, because the receptacle loom is the only thing coming out. That’s the scariest electrical part of this whole install, and it’s behind you now!

Heads up: That light blue wire is the charger interlock on the ERIC carts (on OBC carts, the computer handled that job). When the factory charger was plugged in, it told your cart not to drive. Once the old receptacle is gone, don’t count on your Precedent knowing it’s plugged in, so always unplug before you drive off.

Part B: Pull the Receptacle Out of the Kick Panel

Here’s the order we use to get to your receptacle.

• Take off the rocker panels on the driver and passenger sides (T40 Torx screws plus a few clips on each side).
• Pull your floor mat up and clip it to the pedals and dash so it stays out of your way.
• Back out the three T40 screws across the bottom edge of your kick panel.
• Take out the T30 screws on your seat base, so the body has enough give to let the kick panel out.
• Pop the plastic trim ring off the charge receptacle. Club Car makes a special tool for this, but a plastic trim tool works fine (so does a screwdriver, just go easy so you don’t crack it).
• Work the kick panel loose and slide it forward and out (this is a lot easier with two people).
• Back out the receptacle’s three Phillips screws and pull it out along with its cables.

Your Precedent’s receptacle looks a lot like this one. Club Car used the round three-pin receptacle for the whole Precedent run, and that third pin is the extra wire your old charging system needed (on OBC carts it talked to the computer, and on newer carts it kept you from driving off while plugged in).

Hang on to those three screws and the trim ring. The old receptacle is done, but the screws and the ring go right back in with your new one.

Step 7: Install the New Charge Port

(Watch this step in our video at 18:26)

With the kick panel off, now’s a great time to vacuum out all that dirt (how often do you get this area open, right?). Then push your new 110V charge receptacle through the opening, line it up, and run the three screws you saved in from behind. Club Car’s spec on those screws is only 16 inch-pounds, so snug means snug.

From now on, charging your Precedent means grabbing any extension cord in your garage and plugging it in right up front. And it looks super clean too. (You can buy your brand’s 110V receptacle for this, and some kits even include one for free! Or you can skip it, leave the charger’s plug cable in the battery bay and run an extension cord to it, but you have to lift the seat each time.)

Step 8: Install the Battery Support Brackets

(Watch this step in our video at 19:41)

Good news here. A 6 x 8-volt Precedent uses the same battery bucket as the Tempo, so this step is the same job you see in our video. That bucket has a raised ridge down the middle and a few bumps in the floor. Your kit’s brackets lift the battery up above all of it, and they are also what actually hold the battery to your cart. (Some other brands’ kits have you cut that raised plastic out of your bucket instead. With this kit you don’t need to.)

This part is easier than it sounds. Pick a flat, centered spot for your first bracket that still leaves room beside the battery for your charger. Measure how far apart the bolt holes are on the bracket and mark that spacing with a speed square, then slide your washers up against the edge so you know your holes will be square and in line. Look underneath before you drill, so you go through plastic and not into the frame or a wire. Then drill two pilot holes and open them up with a 5/16" bit.

Push the 5/16" bolts down through the bracket with the big washers on top, reach under the bucket to start the nuts, and snug it all down with a 1/2" socket. For your second bracket, measure the length of the battery across the top, then add the extra distance out to the foot so your battery lands where you want it. Measure twice here. You can always drill another hole, but nobody wants extra holes in the bottom of their Precedent.

Could you get away with self-tappers instead? Probably, for as long as you own the cart. But ALLIED includes nylon locking nuts for a reason, that little nylon ring is what keeps a 108-pound battery from vibrating its hardware loose over years of bumps.

Step 9: Place Your Lithium Battery in the Cart and Secure It

(Watch this step in our video at 25:35)

Before your battery goes in, tuck the main wiring loom (the one running to the front of your cart) under the bracket and snake it through. That keeps it riding under the battery clean instead of getting pinched.

Now grab your helper and lower it in. At 108 pounds it’s a two-person job, but that’s a whole lot easier then lifting out six lead-acid batteries! Line the feet up over the bracket holes on both sides.

Watch your orientation. On our shop cart we pointed all of the important openings at the driver’s side, which is the CAN port, the SOC meter port, the power button and both terminals. Before you bolt anything down on your Precedent, make sure your main positive and main negative will both reach the terminals without stretching. If one comes up short, turn the battery so the terminals face that cable. (Running a different brand? Go with the orientation in your kit’s instructions.)

Then bolt the feet down to the brackets, socket on top and a fixed wrench holding the nut underneath, and get them good and tight.

Step 10: Install the On-Board Charger

(Watch this step in our video at 27:50)

Your charger is easy to mount. Ours went on the flat plastic right beside the passenger side of your battery, and since it’s so light, it doesn’t need brackets. Four #10 self-tapping screws through its mounting tabs hold it just fine.

Run the charger cables through the little valley in your bucket to keep them tidy, then plug the charger’s male plug into the female end on the back of your new charge port.

Step 11: Place the Power Cable in the Battery Bucket

(Watch this step in our video at 29:05)

Your charger has two cables. One goes to your new charge port, and the other one is what actually feeds your battery. Screw that one together with the power cable that came in your kit (it’s the connector with the blue end), and now you’ve got a red positive lead and a black negative lead coming off your charger.

Lay those leads right alongside your main positive and main negative (reds with reds, blacks with blacks), and leave some slack at every connection in case you ever need to unplug something later. Don’t hook anything to the battery yet. That’s Step 14, once your cart is back together. P-clips and a couple of self-tappers will keep your wiring neat, but they’re totally optional.

Step 12: Install the State-of-Charge Meter

(Watch this step in our video at 30:24)

Last big piece! Most Precedents left the factory with a battery warning light on the dash, not a real fuel gauge, and that light was built around a lead-acid pack (on carts with an on-board computer, the bypass shuts it off anyway). Your new state-of-charge (SOC) meter is the real fuel gauge for your new battery, and it goes up on your dash where you’ll actually see it.

Find the long black SOC cable in your kit (it has a silver connector that looks like a microphone plug) and plug it into the SOC Meter port on your battery. We ran ours out through the kick panel area, down the channel under the floor mat, and up behind the dash. Pull your floor mat all the way out for this part and it gets a lot easier (plus you get one more shot with the shop vac).

To get behind the dash, take off your center dash panel. It’s held on by two T30 Torx screws (one on each side) plus one small T15 screw on top in the middle. Once those are out, tip the panel up to free its tabs, and go slow there.

Before you drill, reach up behind the spot you picked and make sure there’s room back there for the meter and its bracket. Pick somewhere flat that’s easy to read from the driver’s seat, then cut your hole with a 2" hole saw and knock the sharp edge off when you’re done.

Push the SOC cable up through your new hole and plug it into the back of the meter. Drop the meter in, slide the bracket over the two little studs on the back, and run the nuts down.

Don’t want a hole in your dash? Order a bracket and mount the meter on your steering column instead. Either way, tuck the extra wire up under the dash and put the panel back on.

Step 13: Put Your Cart Back Together

(Watch this step in our video at 35:17)

Now let’s put your cart back together. Start with your floor mat, tucking the front edge in first, but keep half of it folded back so you have room to get the kick panel back on.

Set the kick panel in place and run those three T40 screws back in across the bottom edge. Pop the trim ring back onto your new charge receptacle and lay your floor mat down flat. Then put your T30 seat base screws back in (don’t skip this one) and reinstall your rocker panels.

Step 14: Hook Up the Battery Cables

(Watch this step in our video at 37:58)

Almost done! Grab the terminal hardware out of your kit and stack your cables in this order.

• Negative terminal gets your main negative first, then the negative cable from your charger goes on top of it
• Positive terminal gets your main positive first, with the charging cable on top

Run the hardware through both cables on each terminal and tighten it down. Then clip on the terminal covers that came in your kit, angled so they follow the direction of your cables.

Anything else that was hooked to your old batteries (a light harness, an accessory lead) does not go on this battery. If it runs on 12 volts, it goes to a voltage reducer, and that’s the very next section.

Step 15: Power On the Battery System

(Watch this step in our video at 38:47)

Now for the fun part! Flip your Run/Tow switch back to RUN, then press and hold the power button on your battery until the light comes on. The SOC meter on your dash should wake up right along with it.

Don’t be surprised if it reads low, new lithium batteries usually show up at around 50% charge or less (no matter which brand you buy), so plug your Precedent in and charge it all the way up before your first real drive. While it charges, download the ALLIED app, pair it with your battery over Bluetooth, and register your battery with ALLIED (they want it registered within 60 days to lock in the full warranty). Then turn your key on, put it in forward, and take a short lap around the driveway. Listen for anything rattling and make sure nothing is pinched under the seat. Then go enjoy the ride!

All Done! Your Precedent Runs on Lithium Now

That’s it, start to finish. You pulled close to 400 pounds of lead out of your cart and swapped it for one 108-pound battery. You got a gauge that tells you exactly how much juice you have left at any time, a charger that fills you up in an afternoon instead of overnight, and a battery bay you never have to water again.

The first thing you’ll notice is not the range. It’s that the cart stops sagging. Hill number four feels like hill number one, and you will feel more torque and just enjoy driving you cart more than you ever have (we’re sure of it)! Next time a buddy complains that his Precedent is dying halfway through the back nine, you’ll know exactly where to send him.

Questions? We’ve got your back!

If you are staring at your battery bay and something does not match what you just read, call us at 1-844-422-7884 and we will walk through it with you. We do this all day. You can also browse our Club Car Precedent batteries or the rest of our Precedent parts while you are planning the job. And if you landed here with a Tempo instead, our Club Car Tempo lithium conversion guide is the one you want.

Written by Alex Sturwold

Alex Sturwold is the President of Golf Cart Tire Supply, and founder of the Golf Cart Sellers marketplace. Alex is a lifelong gearhead and vehicle expert, bringing over two decades of practical experience to GCTS including serving major industrial companies, such as Carlisle, during his years as an investment banker at Merrill Lynch. A resident of beautiful Arizona, Alex enjoys hitting the trails in side-by-sides, hiking, shooting guns and driving anything with a motor strapped to it. You can find him on LinkedIn

How to Convert Your Club Car Tempo to Lithium

If your Club Car Tempo is still running on six lead-acid batteries, you’re sitting on one of the smartest upgrades you can give your cart. There are a ton of Tempos out there that started life on a golf course and put in their years at a country club before ending up in somebody’s garage with a battery pack that was never exactly babied. Our own shop Tempo was one of them! We’d plug it in overnight, and 15 or 20 minutes into a ride it was already down to half power and wouldn’t climb a hill to save its life. When your charges stop lasting like that, your batteries are on their way out.

So we did what we tell our customers to do. We converted our 2019 Club Car Tempo to lithium, filmed the whole thing start to finish, and broke it into 14 easy steps so you can do it at home too. This written guide follows that video step-by-step, with extra detail (and extra photos) on the parts that are easy to mess up. Grab your socket set and a free afternoon (or morning), because this is a job you can absolutely knock out in your driveway yourself.

Every step below lines up with a chapter in the video, so if you’d rather watch a step than read it, just click the timestamp under that step.

Is Your Club Car Tempo Lead-Acid or Factory Lithium?

Before you buy anything: lift your cart's seat. If you see 6 x 8-volt batteries lined up in your tray (most likely with a skinny black watering line running across the tops), you’re in the right place, this guide is for you!

If you see one big factory lithium pack instead, you have one of the lithium Tempos that Club Car started rolling out in 2019. And you'll need a factory battery replacement, not a conversion. Our BOLT Energy Club Car Tempo Lithium Battery Replacement Kit is made for exactly those factory lithium carts (the ones with a Vanguard or LG OEM battery pack).

And there is some good news for older lead-acid Tempo owners... you won’t be dealing with an onboard computer (OBC) bypass! Lead-acid Tempos charge through Club Car’s ERIC system (which doesn’t use one). Not sure what year your cart is? Check out our Club Car serial number lookup.

Why Convert Your Club Car Tempo to Lithium?

(Watch this part in our video at 5:35)

You came here for the how-to, so we’ll keep the why part short. But the reasons are plenty (and listed below). And once you decide to go lithium, checkout our Best Lithium Golf Cart Battery list to make sure you get the right setup for your cart. Here's why lithium golf cart batteries are so great:

• Lots less weight. Six 8-volt batteries weigh around 60 pounds each, so you’re hauling 350 pounds of lead. The ALLIED lithium pack in our install weighs 108 pounds total.
• Zero upkeep. No watering, no crusty terminals, and no trickle chargers to deal with. Lead-acid batteries that get neglected can die out in just a couple years.
• Full power until the end. Lithium batteries are just like your cell phone battery, so you still have all of your power down to the end. Lead-acid just gets weaker and weaker slowly as it drains.
• Quicker charging. 80% charge in about 2 to 3 hours, with the rest not taking much longer. Lead-acid wants to sit on the charger overnight (or 6 hours just to get to around 80%).
• It lasts. A brand new set of lead-acid batteries gets about 6 years in our shop carts. Lithium should give you 8, probably 10. And many now come with lifetime warranties.

Yes, lithium still costs a little more up front than a new traditional lead-acid batteries, even though prices have come down a bunch over the last five years. But if your Tempo needs batteries anyway, lithium is the way to go. Just trust us, because we talk to hundreds of cart owners each week.

What You’ll Need for Your Club Car Tempo Lithium Conversion

(See what comes in the box in our video at 0:30)

The heart of this job is a 48-volt lithium kit that fits the Tempo. Whatever brand you land on, make sure the box includes bolt-down mounting brackets (your Tempo’s battery tray needs them, more on that in Step 7), a charger built for lithium, and a state-of-charge gauge.

For this install we used:

What we installed in this guide

ALLIED 48V 105Ah BIG BOX Lithium Kit

Drop-in ready for a lead-acid Club Car Tempo. One pack, one charger, and the bolt-down brackets your Tempo’s tray needs.

• 51.2V and 105Ah, good for about 30 to 45 miles per charge
• One 108 lb pack takes the place of all six lead-acid batteries
• Waterproof 15 amp lithium charger, state-of-charge meter and Bluetooth app in the box
• 10-year ALLIED warranty (first 3 years at no charge, years 4 through 10 prorated)

Price: $2,248.95 $2,799.99 (you save $551.04)

See the Kit

Not sure it’s the right size for your cart? Call us at 1-844-422-7884.

Here’s what came in our ALLIED box (most 48V 105Ah kits look a lot like this):

• 51.2V 105Ah lithium battery - one 108 lb pack that replaces all six of your old batteries
• Battery cables
• Mounting brackets that the battery’s feet bolt onto (the pack sits a little higher in the tray on them)
• On-board lithium charger - a 15 amp charger that mounts right in your battery bay and plugs into any wall outlet
• State-of-charge meter, the gas gauge for your new battery
• Battery strap for hauling the old lead-acid batteries out (nice touch, ALLIED)
• Hardware packet with nylon lock nuts, big washers, terminal covers, and the CAN and RS485 harness

There’s two add-ons worth thinking about before you check out.

• A 110V charge receptacle (about $85) that swaps into your factory charge port, so any extension cord plugs in right up front. We put one in on all of our conversions.
• A 48V to 12V voltage reducer if your Tempo runs 12-volt stuff like lights, a horn, or USB ports. The full install is in its own section at the bottom of this guide.

We carry Tempo-ready lithium kits from other brands too (ECO Battery, BOLT, MODZ and Trojan), and you can shop all of them in our Club Car Batteries section.

Tools You’ll Need

• A 1/2" socket and a 1/2" wrench (battery cables and charge port wires)
• A 5/8" deep socket for the battery hold-downs
• T40, T30, T27 and T15 Torx bits
• A drill with a small pilot bit and a 5/16" bit
• A 2" hole saw for the state-of-charge gauge (ours is a Hole Dozer from the hardware store)
• A speed square, tape measure and marker
• A fixed wrench to hold the lock nuts from underneath
• A screwdriver, flush cutters and a plastic trim tool
• Four #10 self-tapping screws for mounting the charger
• A couple of clips to hold the floor mat out of your way (laundry clips work great)
• A shop vac and a work light
• Optional: P-clips and zip ties for tidy wiring

Step-by-Step: Club Car Tempo Lithium Conversion

Time Required: An afternoon (or a morning, if you’re an early riser)
Difficulty Level: Moderate (the charge port and the kick panel are the fiddly parts)

Step 1: Remove the Seat and Put Your Cart in TOW

(Watch this step in our video at 1:53)

The seat on a Club Car lifts straight up and off its hinges pretty easily. Set it somewhere safe and grab a work light, because we're about to make your battery bay real pretty!

Find your Run/Tow switch on the silver panel inside the battery compartment and flip it into TOW. That protects you from getting shocked while you work (trust us, it’s happened before). Then double check that the key on your dash is in the OFF positon as well.

Step 2: Disconnect the Battery Cables

(Watch this step in our video at 2:31)

There’s a lot of cables in there, but don’t worry... only two of them matter for your new lithium setup. That’s your main positive and your main negative. Every other cable comes out with your old batteries and never goes back in.

Start with your main negative, then work your way through the rest of the battery cables with a 1/2" socket. Wrap a piece of tape around your main positive and main negative (and any accessories cables you have running to them) so they’re easy to find later. They both come up by the silver panel on the driver’s side, and you’ll hook them up to your new battery in Step 13.

Your Tempo may also have a single point watering system (that skinny black hose-line running across the tops of your batteries). It pops out easily, so pull it off and toss that baby out! You never have to water a lithium battery, which is one of the best parts of the whole upgrade.

Pro Tip: Snap a few pictures of your battery bay with your phone before you pull anything. They come in handy if you ever need to double check how something was hooked up before.

Step 3: Remove the Battery Hold-Downs

(Watch this step in our video at 3:53)

This one’s quick! There’s one hold-down on each side of your battery bank, and each one clamps down three batteries. Grab a 5/8" deep socket, back them off and set them aside. Your new lithium battery bolts down a totally different way so you won’t need these again.

Step 4: Remove the Old Batteries

Time for your daily workout! Hook your battery strap under the end tabs of each battery and lift them out one at a time. No strap? Try an old leather belt (or a heavy duty nylon one) through the end tabs and it will get the job done too (yes, we’ve done it).

Safety Warning: Each of those batteries weighs around 60 pounds. Lift with your legs and keep the battery close to your body. And grab a buddy to help if you can.

Once your tray is empty clean it up with a shop vac. Ours had tons of dirt and a few leaves in it. And don’t throw your old batteries in the trash - drop them off at a battery recycler instead (and get a few bucks for the cores too)!

Step 5: Remove the Factory Charge Port

(We HIGHLY recommend you watch this step in our video at 8:18)

This is the first big one. Removing the factory charge port takes up about ten minutes of our video, more than any other step in this Club Car Tempo lithium conversion. And that's because there are several things you need to disassemble before you can get to the charge port.

Your Club Car’s factory charge receptacle is a round three-pin plug, and its wires run all the way back to your motor controller. You’ll unhook those wires first, then pull the receptacle out of your kick panel.

Part A: Unhook the Charge Receptacle Wires at the Controller

Your wiring looms are held together with a zip tie near the silver panel. Snip it so you can pick out the loom that runs to your charge receptacle. Then back out the single T40 bolt holding the silver panel and let the panel come down. Right behind it is your motor controller (the brain of your golf cart).

Only three wires come off the charge receptacle loom, and here’s how each one comes off:

• Red wire runs through a small inline fuse and sits on a solenoid terminal. Take the nut off with a 1/2" wrench and slide the red wire off. Then put the nut and washer right back on and snug them down, because your solenoid still needs a good tight connection.
• Blue wire is the easy one. It’s a simple pull-apart connection, so just pull it apart.
• Black wire sits on a terminal right on the controller. Take the nut off with your 1/2" wrench and lift off only the receptacle’s black wire. There’s another black wire under it from a different loom that stays put, so put the nut back on nice and snug.

Leave every other wire back there right where it is, because the receptacle loom is the only thing coming out. Pull it through, then push the silver panel back into place (it takes a little persuading, a light tap with a hammer helps) and run the T40 bolt back in. The scariest electrical part of this whole install is now behind you!

Heads up: That blue wire is the charger interlock on Club Car’s ERIC charging system. When the factory charger is plugged in, it tells your cart not to drive.

Part B: Pull the Receptacle Out of the Kick Panel

Quick detour on why we’re doing this. Almost every lithium kit (ALLIED included) comes with an on-board charger that mounts right in your battery tray. You could leave the charger’s included plug cable in the battery bay and run an extension cord to it (but you have to lift the seat each time). Or for about $85, you can buy your brand's 110V charge receptacle that goes right in the factory spot, so any extension cord plugs into the front of your cart and it looks like it came that way from Club Car. That’s what we do on all of our conversions. Some kits even include this for free! Either way, the old receptacle loom has gotta go (come out).

Here’s the order we will use to get to your receptacle.

1. Take off the side panels on the driver and passenger sides (T40).
2. Pull your floor mat up and clip it to the pedals and dash so it stays out of your way.
3. Remove the three T40 bolts along the bottom of the kick panel, then the two T30 screws on top.
4. Pop the plastic trim ring off the charge receptacle with a plastic trim tool. A screwdriver works too, just go easy so you don’t crack it.
5. Pull up hard on one side of the kick panel, then the other, and slide it forward and out (this is a lot easier with two people).
6. Back out the three screws holding the receptacle (two on top, one on the bottom) and pull it out along with all of its cables.

Save those three screws and the trim ring. You’re done with the old receptacle, but the screws and the ring go right back on with your new one.

Step 6: Install the New Charge Port

(Watch this step in our video at 18:26)

With the kick panel off now’s a great time to vacuum out all that dirt (how often do you get this area open, right?). Then feed your new 110V charge receptacle straight through the opening and line it up with the tabs. Secure it from behind with the three screws you saved, snug them down, and that’s it.

From now on, charging your Tempo is as easy as grabbing any extension cord in your garage and plugging it in right up front. And it looks super clean too.

Step 7: Install the Battery Support Brackets

(Watch this step in our video at 19:41)

If your cart had a nice flat battery tray, you could set the lithium battery right in and drive self-tapping screws straight down through its feet. But the Tempo isn’t that cart. Its battery tray is full of cutouts, and the main wiring harness runs through there too. So you’ll bolt the supplied brackets down to your tray first, then set the battery on top of them.

This part is easier than it sounds. Pick a flat, centered spot for your first bracket that still leaves room beside the battery for your charger. Measure how far apart the bolt holes are on the bracket and mark that spacing on a speed square. Then slide your washers up against the edge, so you know your holes will be square and in line. Drill two pilot holes, then open them up with a 5/16" bit.

Push the 5/16" bolts down through the bracket with the big washers on top. Then reach under the tray to start the nuts, and snug everything down with a 1/2" socket.

For your second bracket, measure the length of the battery across the top, then add the extra distance out to the foot so the battery lands right where you want it. Drill and bolt it down the same way. Measure twice here. You can always drill another hole, but nobody wants extra holes in the bottom of their Tempo.

Could you get away with self-tappers on the brackets instead? Probably, for as long as you own the cart. But ALLIED includes nylon locking nuts for a reason, that little nylon ring keeps a 108-pound battery from vibrating its hardware loose over years of bumps. It’s the cleanest way to do this install.

Step 8: Place the new Lithium Battery in the Cart and Secure It

(Watch this step in our video at 25:35)

Before your battery goes in, tuck the main wiring loom (the one that runs to the front of your cart) under the bracket and snake it through. That keeps it riding under the battery nice and clean instead of getting pinched.

Now grab a helper and lower your battery in. At 108 pounds it’s a two-person job, but that’s a whole lot easier then lifting out six lead-acid batteries! Line the feet up over the bracket holes on both sides.

Watch your orientation. We set our battery with all of the important openings facing the driver’s side. That’s the CAN port, the SOC meter port, the power button and both terminals. Your main positive and main negative both come up on that side, so they’ll reach the terminals without any stretching. (That’s how the ALLIED pack fits in our Tempo. If you’re running a different brand, go with the orientation in your kit’s instructions.)

Bolt the feet down to the brackets with a socket on top and a fixed wrench holding the nut underneath, and get them good and tight.

Step 9: Install the On-Board Charger

(Watch this step in our video at 27:50)

Your charger is easy to mount. It goes on the flat plastic right next to the passenger side of your battery, and since it weighs very little, it doesn’t need brackets. Four #10 self-tapping screws through it’s mounting tabs will hold it in place just fine.

Route the charger cables through the little valley in your tray to keep things tidy. Then plug the charger’s male plug into the female end on the back of your new charge port.

Step 10: Place the Power Cable in the Battery Tray

(Watch this step in our video at 29:05)

The charger’s other cable is the one that actually feeds your battery. Screw it together with the power cable that came in your kit (it’s the connector with the blue end) and now you’ve got a new red positive lead and black negative lead for your battery.

Lay those new leads right alongside your main positive and main negative (reds with reds, blacks with blacks), and leave some slack at every connection in case you ever need to unplug something later. P-clips and a couple of self-tappers will keep your wiring neat, but they’re totally optional. Loose cables in there are just fine.

Step 11: Install the State-of-Charge Gauge

(Watch this step in our video at 30:24)

Last big piece! Your state-of-charge (SOC) meter is the fuel gauge for your new battery, and it goes up on your dash where you’ll actually see it. Plug the long black SOC cable (the one with a silver connector that looks like a microphone plug) into the SOC Meter port on your battery.

Run the cable out through the kick panel area and down the empty channel under your floor mat. Then bring it up behind the dash. Pulling your floor mat out completely makes this a lot easier (and gives you one more shot with the shop vac).

To get behind the dash, take off your center dash panel. It’s held on by two T27 screws (one on each side) plus one small T15 screw on top in the middle.

Before you drill, reach up behind the spot you picked and make sure there’s room back there for the gauge and its bracket. Then cut your hole with a 2" hole saw. We picked our spot by eye, somewhere flat that’s easy to read from the driver’s seat.

Feed the SOC cable up through the hole and plug it into the back of the gauge. Set the gauge in and slide the bracket over the two little studs on the back. Then run the nuts down.

Rather not drill a hole in your dash? You can order a bracket and mount the gauge on your steering column instead. Either way, tuck the extra wire up under the dash and put the panel back on (T15 first). Then pull any leftover slack back through the kick panel area.

Got one of the newest Tempos? Club Car announced a redesigned dash for the Tempo in 2025 (on the lithium, lead-acid and gas models), so your gauge spot will look a little different from ours. Same idea though, find a flat spot with room behind it.

Step 12: Begin Reassembly

(Watch this step in our video at 35:17)

Now let’s put your cart back together. Start with your floor mat, tucking the front edge in first and then the sides. Keep half of it folded back and clipped to the pedal though, because you’ll need that room to get the kick panel back on.

Set the kick panel in place. There’s three T40 bolts along the bottom, so run those back in first. Then snap the top plastic piece back into place. This little panel is one of the hardest parts of the whole install, so be patient and don’t break the fins. Once it’s lined up, give it a firm smack with the heel of your hand to seat it.

Pop the trim ring back onto your new charge receptacle and lay your floor mat down flat. Then put the two T30 screws back in on top and reinstall your side panels.

Step 13: Hook Up the New Lithium Battery Cables

(Watch this step in our video at 37:58)

Almost done! Grab the terminal hardware out of your kit and stack your cables in this order.

• Negative terminal gets your main negative first, then the negative cable from the charger goes on top of it
• Positive terminal gets your main positive first, with the charging cable on top

Run the hardware through both cables on each terminal and tighten it down. Then clip on the terminal covers that came in your kit, angled so they follow the direction of your cables.

Step 14: Power On the Battery System

(Watch this step in our video at 38:47)

Now for the fun part! Flip your Run/Tow switch back into RUN, then press and hold the power button on your battery until the light comes on. Your SOC gauge up on the dash should wake up right along with it.

Don’t be surprised if it reads low, new lithium batteries usually show up at around 50% charge or less (no matter which brand you buy), so plug your Tempo in and charge it all the way up before your first real drive. While it charges, download the ALLIED app and pair it with your battery over Bluetooth. Then turn your key on and put it in forward. Go enjoy the ride!

All Done! Your Club Car Tempo Runs on Lithium Now

That’s the whole Club Car Tempo lithium conversion, start to finish! You pulled 350 pounds of lead out of your cart and swapped it for one 108-pound battery. You also got a gauge that tells you exactly how much juice you have left at any time, and a charge port that takes any extension cord in your garage. No more watering, and no more wondering if your cart will make it back up the hill. You'll also feel more torque and just enjoy driving you cart more than you ever have (we're sure of it)!

It really does take about an afternoon and your Tempo is going to feel like a whole new cart. So the next time somebody at the course complains that their Tempo is dying halfway through the back nine... you’ll know exactly where to send them!

Need Help? We’ve got your back!

Got questions about your Club Car Tempo lithium conversion, or not sure which kit is right for your cart? Give our Golf Cart Expert team a call at 1-844-422-7884. We sell and support a whole lot of lithium golf cart batteries and conversion kits. And if your Tempo needs anything else while the seat is up, we carry plenty of Club Car Tempo parts too!

Written by Alex Sturwold

Alex Sturwold is the President of Golf Cart Tire Supply, and founder of the Golf Cart Sellers marketplace. Alex is a lifelong gearhead and vehicle expert, bringing over two decades of practical experience to GCTS including serving major industrial companies, such as Carlisle, during his years as an investment banker at Merrill Lynch. A resident of beautiful Arizona, Alex enjoys hitting the trails in side-by-sides, hiking, shooting guns and driving anything with a motor strapped to it. You can find him on LinkedIn

There’s a few reasons chrome fell out of favor for a couple years there (everybody and their brother wanted black and milled wheels), but it came roaring back these past couple years, and is more popular than ever in 2026. And we get it. Nothing catches the sun and stops traffic at the clubhouse quite like a fresh set of chrome golf cart wheels. Out here in Arizona, a clean chrome wheel will blind your neighbors across the street (in the best way possible) while making them love the way your cart looks in the process. If you want to see every last set we stock, here’s our full lineup of chrome golf cart wheels. But if you just want the best of the best that we carry, keep on reading.

Just like our big annual Top 10 wheels list, we organized this one by our best selling chrome wheel and tire combos, focusing on the wheel style itself (each style is likely offered in multiple sizes). Every wheel we sell here shows up already mounted on tires and ready to bolt on, but we offer the loose wheels as well. All six in this article are DOT approved and turf safe, and five of the six bolt onto most carts with no lift kit at all (the big 15-inch CONVICT is our one exception, and we get into why down below). This list is backed by customer data from thousands of chrome wheels sets sold the past 12 years, and the past 12 months to build this list. Our team looked at what’s selling, what looks best in person, and what our customers keep calling and asking us about. So let’s get into it!

The 6 Best Chrome Golf Cart Wheels of 2026

6. 14" TITAN Chrome Golf Cart Wheels

We’ll start at #6 with the 14” TITAN Chrome Golf Cart Wheels from TREX. This is the wheel we point people to when they call up wanting a clean and refined 14-inch chrome design that looks like it could go on a modern Ferrari. No deep dish lip. No crazy sizing. The TITAN gives you clean, automotive-style spokes and a bright mirror shine that dresses up any cart instantly. And here’s the best part, TREX finishes these in a PVD chrome coating, which is just a fancy way of saying it fights off rust and holds its shine way longer than your run-of-the-mill chrome (and that matters a lot when your cart lives its days outside in the weather like most do).

At a traditional 14x7 with a 3+4 offset, you won’t run into any clearance headaches on any make or model of cart. Wrap it in the low-profile 205/30-14 tires (as shown here) or bump up to the taller ComfortGlide radial in 215/35-14 or 23x10R14 if you want more sidewall, and you got yourself the best looking cart on your block. It’s not the boldest wheel here and it isn’t trying to be. The TITAN is a clean classic look at a price that makes sense.

Wheel Features:

• 14x7 size with 3+4 offset, fits most carts with no lift kit needed (also available in 12x7)
• PVD chrome coating holds the shine and fights corrosion (big deal if your cart sits outside)
• Ships on 205/30-14 DOT rubber, with the StreetGlide radial as a step up.

Product Details

5. 12" RALLY Chrome Golf Cart Wheels

Coming in at #5 on our list this year are the 12” RALLY Chrome golf cart wheels. This is one of the more affordable chrome options that we offer on our site. And this wheel is again popular with our customers who want tidy over flashy. The RALLY has a sporty, OEM+ kind of look to it. These wheels again aren’t the deepest dish wheels on our list, and they aren’t the spokiest, they just give you a nice clean chrome finish that’ll really class up any cart you add them to. Factory-plus, like your cart rolled off the line looking this good.

The 12-inch RALLY on 215/40-12 Low Profile Tires shown here is perfect for all carts (fits all). The whole combo stands right around 18.5 inches tall so you don’t need a lift kit to run it.  It fits all the major carts too (Club Car, E-Z-GO, Yamaha, ICON, you name it). Simple, clean, done. We just wish Steeleng offered it in a 14" Chrome Version as well!

Wheel Features:

• Sporty OEM+ styling that classes up a cart without shouting about it
• 12x7 Wheel on 215/40-12 low profile tires, 18.5” tall. No lift kit needed on all carts

Product Details

4. 15" CONVICT Chrome Golf Cart Wheels

Number 4 on our list is our first 15" Golf Cart Wheel ever to be featured on this list (as this size grows in popularity)! The 15” CONVICT Chrome golf cart wheels from MODZ is a monstrous 15x10, so that’s ten full inches of wheel width on every corner of your cart, with a 3+7 offset shoving it way out past the body of your cart. MODZ calls it the industry’s first 15x10 golf cart wheel, and we'll warn you in advance, you will absolutely sling stuff up at your passengers - but beauty is pain, right? The stance it gives a lifted cart is flat out ridiculous (in the way you want it to be) just like your favorite lifted trucks.

The 23x10R15 tires on this setup stand 23 inches tall, so your cart has to be lifted to run them. And the ARISUN X-ARMORY Hybrid all terrain steel belted radial we sell these on not only was one of our best golf cart tires of 2026, but is golf course safe with only 7mm of tread depth (and stays quiet on pavement) and it can still take you through gravel and dirt without complaining. Radials also ride a whole lot smoother than bias tires do, and you really feel that on a setup like this.

This is the most expensive chrome set on the list and we won't pretend otherwise, but you’re getting four 15-inch wheels, four radial tires, professional mounting and free shipping all in one shot. And you're beating anything your neighbor could possibly have on their cart! The CONVICT also comes in a Glossy Black with Ball Mill, in case somebody else in your house votes against chrome.

Wheel Features:

• 15x10 with a 3+7 offset. Widest chrome wheel we stock, by a lot.
• 23x10R15 hybrid all terrain radials, 23” tall, so you need a lift
• Caps and lug nuts included, nothing left to buy
• Also in Glossy Black / Ball Mill

Product Details

3. 10" BULLDOG Chrome Golf Cart Wheels

At number 3, a true industry classic. The 10” BULLDOG Chrome Golf Cart Wheels are the old reliable of the chrome world. This design has been around for years now, and the combo has been a best seller for us that entire time (some wheels are here one season and gone the next, this one just keeps on selling). There’s a real good reason for that.

The magic of the BULLDOG is that 10-inch size. It’s small enough, whether you want Street Tires or shorter All Terrain tires, to bolt onto just about any golf cart out there without a lift kit. You still get that timeless multi-spoke chrome look, riding on 205/50-10 low-profile tires that stand about 18 inches tall. No lift kit, no drama, no headache. Yes, a 10" wheel is never going to fill out a wheel well the way a 14" does. But it will dress up any cart out there for a fraction of the money. If you want to add some class on a budget, the BULLDOG is the easiest yes on this whole list.

Wheel Features:

• Classic 10-inch design
• One of our best-selling chrome combos for years and years now
• Sits about 18” tall on 205/50-10 low profile DOT tires

Product Details

2. 14" REAPER Chrome Golf Cart Wheels

Our runner-up this year is the 14” REAPER Chrome Golf Cart Wheels, and man is this thing sharp. This is one of our newer chrome wheels from MODZ and it’s got some serious multi-spoke presence. There’s a lot of wheels out there that swing for aggressive and just end up looking busy. The REAPER doesn’t. If you want your cart to look like it means business, then this is the one you’ve been looking for.

It’s a full 14x7 with a 3+4 offset, so even though it looks like a whole lot of wheel, it still tucks up under a stock cart just fine. Chrome front to back, wrapped in low-profile 205/30-14 tires (with that radial upgrade available if you want a smoother ride and longer tread-life). The 14" REAPER will run you a bit more than most of the pack, but you can see exactly where that money went the second you lay eyes on it.

Wheel Features:

• Bold, aggressive styling with some serious road presence
• One of our newest and most premium chrome wheels
• 14x7 with 3+4 offset, still fits most carts without a lift
• 205/30-14 low profile DOT tires, radial upgrade available

Product Details

1. 14" BLITZ Chrome Golf Cart Wheels

And our number one chrome golf cart wheel of 2026? The 14” BLITZ Chrome Golf Cart Wheels from TREX. It wasn’t even close.

We released the BLITZ in chrome late in the spring of 2026, and we sold clean out of the entire first batch in about three weeks. Three weeks! We could not keep these things on the shelf if we tried, and we’re still scrambling to keep them in stock (we have 2,000 of them landing every other month). One look and you’ll get why. The BLITZ has a deep dish, offroad truck-inspired design, and in full chrome it quits looking like a golf cart wheel altogether. Looks more like something off a lifted truck that shrunk just a bit. It’s the kind of wheel that has your whole neighborhood wandering over to ask where you got them.

Even with all that deep-dish drama, the BLITZ is still a traditional 14x7 in size with a non-aggresive offset, so you won’t have a single clearance issue running it on any cart make or model. Right now it only comes in the 14-inch size (we’ve heard a 12-inch version might be on the way, fingers crossed), and if chrome somehow isn’t your thing, it also comes in a gorgeous Ball Mill / Black finish. But hey, you’re on the chrome list for a reason, so go grab the shiny ones. You will not regret it.

Wheel Features:

• By far the most popular chrome golf cart wheel of 2026
• Newest wheel in this roundup, and the hardest one to keep in stock
• Traditional 14x7, so zero clearance issues on any cart
• Also in Ball Mill / Black. Only a 14” for now.

Product Details

Shop the Best Chrome Golf Cart Wheels

Here’s the honest truth about chrome. It looks like a million bucks when it’s clean, and it shows every last speck of dust when it’s not (that’s just the deal you make with a shiny wheel). Keep your set wiped down with a soft rag and a little basic soap and water, and they’ll shine for years. Just skip the harsh chemicals and the wire brushes, your chrome will thank you for it.

Chrome fads come and go, but people have been chasing a mirror shine since long before anybody thought to bolt it onto a golf cart (ask anybody who grew up around American hot rods). We’re authorized dealers for the biggest wheel and tire brands in the country, so whatever you pick off this list, you know you’re getting the real deal and not some Amazon knock-off. Take a look at all of our chrome and polished wheels, or our full lineup of golf cart wheels and tires, and if you get stuck just give us a call (or chat with us) any time. We’re always happy to help you get your cart looking right!

Written by Alex Sturwold

Alex Sturwold is the President of Golf Cart Tire Supply, and founder of the Golf Cart Sellers marketplace. Alex is a lifelong gearhead and vehicle expert, bringing over two decades of practical experience to GCTS including serving major industrial companies, such as Carlisle, during his years as an investment banker at Merrill Lynch. A resident of beautiful Arizona, Alex enjoys hitting the trails in side-by-sides, hiking, shooting guns and driving anything with a motor strapped to it. You can find him on LinkedIn

How to Replace Your Gen 2 RXV ELiTE Samsung Battery

If your EZGO RXV ELiTE is one of the newer factory lithium carts (the 2022 and up model years), then you landed on the right guide. For a good long while, that white Samsung SDI Lithium Battery pack riding under your cart's seat did its job just fine. But here we are. Maybe she's flat-out dead. OR, she still runs, but the range isn’t what it used to be, the cart hangs on the charger longer than it should, and you’re starting to wonder what the fix is gonna run you. Good news, you found the best article possible before you spend a dime. Because your cart is about to get an UPGRADE (more range, more power, more battery features) for about $1,000 less than what a replacement Samsung battery would cost you.

We’ve been helping RXV owners get off tired factory packs since the ELiTE carts first showed up, and the number one thing we hear after the swap is the same thing the lead-acid crowd always tells us: “I should’ve done this sooner.” Trading your Samsung SDI system for a quality aftermarket lithium kit isn’t a lateral move back to stock. A good EZGO RXV lithium battery replacement is a real step up. More range, a smarter battery, and a warranty that will likely outlive the cart itself. And all the factory RXV ELiTE replacement kits we sell drop right into the tray your RXV already has.

Quick check to make sure you're in the right place: this guide is for Gen 2 RXV ELiTE carts, the ones with the WHITE Samsung battery (roughly the 2022 model year and up). Lift your seat and take a look at yours right now. White pack, you’re in the right spot. If you’ve got the BLACK Samsung SDi battery, that’s a Gen-1 and you’ll want our RXV Gen-1 Replacement guide instead, because the adapter and a couple of these steps are different, and we don’t want you ordering the wrong kit, or worse, getting halfway done with an install before you find out.

5 Reasons to Replace Your Samsung Battery With a Quality Aftermarket Brand

You already have a lithium cart, so you know how great they are. So for once, we get to skip the whole “Lithium versus Lead-acid” benefits speech (thankfully!). What actually matters here is why you’d drop in an upgraded aftermarket pack (from a brand like ECO Battery or BOLT) over letting your EZGO dealer sell you the same old Samsung pack at a premium. Here’s the honest rundown (because Samsung does make great products in general).

1. Upgraded Aftermarket Batteries Give You More Than Your Cart Started With

The RXV ELiTE rolled off the line with a 60Ah Samsung SDi pack that was built for a charge-range that felt just fine when the cart was new (right around 20 miles per charge).

In comparison, a good aftermarket 105Ah pack will get you a real 30 to 45 miles on a full charge, and the power comes on quicker than your factory battery’s ever did (those instant bursts everyone loves). And if you’ve got an upgraded controller and/or electric motor, or a sound system and lights, the upgraded battery keeps up with feeding all your accessories easily. A quality lithium battery pack manages heat well too, which matters when your cart bakes in the Florida sun or gets used through the Arizona summers (like our shop carts do).

2. Your New Battery Warranty Will Outlive Your Cart

Most Gen-2 Lithium RXV carts left the factory with an 8-year battery warranty. Do the math on a 2022-ish cart and that clock is already ticking down fast. The better aftermarket brands back their packs with a warranty the factory never dreamed of, some of them are even limited lifetime warranties. Lifetime. That’s the kind of number you can take to the bank, and it’s a big reason our customers stop considering OEM replacements and just call us for an upgrade that saves them cash at the same time.

3. You Can See Your Battery Health (Management App)

Your RXV ELiTE is amazing in a lot of ways, but one thing the EZGO factory never handed you is a way to actually see your own battery and what’s going on inside it. The lithium batteries we sell for RXVs all have apps that let your battery talk to your phone, so you can check your charge level from your living room couch, keep an eye on battery-cell health, and update your battery’s brain (its firmware) yourself. Your old Samsung system was a sealed black box (literally, and figuratively) with no info visible to you as the owner.

4. Still Fits and Works Like the Factory Meant it To

The right battery replacement kit for your RXV Gen-2 cart comes with a pack that is properly shaped for the 2022-and-up battery tray, and it’s built to drop in without you having to hack up your cart. No spacers stacked up high, no praying it’ll clear the seat. It goes right where the Samsung SDi came out (ECO calls their Gen-2 version the “Thru Hole” pack, because it anchors down over a center rod). You’ll drill one hole for that rod and that’s the only “modifying” you’ll need to do to get your kit in.

5. Lithium Golf Cart Battery Brands Live and Breathe Golf Carts

Lithium golf cart battery brands (ECO, ALLIED, BOLT, MODZ, etc.) focus on golf carts exclusively; it means they aren’t busy making TVs, microwaves and dishwashers. They are busy making sure your BMS firmware is up to date and studying the latest hardware in the carts coming off the assembly line at EZGO, so you don’t just get something that works to power your cart, you get what’s best to power your cart.

What You’ll Need for the RXV ELiTE Battery Replacement

What you’re after is a EZGO RXV Lithium Battery Replacement made for the RXV ELiTE, from a brand such as ECO Battery or BOLT. The two things that matter most here are:

1. Plug-and-play compatibility with your factory EZGO harness and accessories (that’s what keeps this a bolt-in job instead of a wiring nightmare).
2. Trusted firmware that won’t cook anything on your cart (we only sell trusted brands here at GCTS).

For this install, we’re walking through the ECO Battery factory RXV ELiTE replacement kit for the Gen-2 Samsung swap. Right now it costs around $2,000 (60Ah) or $2,600 (105Ah), ships free, and both come in well under what the less-powerful factory OEM Samsung unit will run you. And the ECO kit here includes everything you need (it all comes in the box).

Here’s what comes in the RXV battery replacement kit (this is the ECO box we’re using):

• 48V 105Ah Pack - ECO’s “Thru Hole” shape that drops into your 2022-and-up RXV battery tray over a center rod
• 48V CAN Charger - (15-amp, and it actually talks to the battery while it charges)
• The Samsung Adapter Harness, very important - because this is the little piece that lets an ECO battery pack speak fluent RXV and match up with all your cart’s factory functions (part number A-4136 on the Gen-2 carts)
• LCD Charge Meter - a real percentage readout, not four little bars that leave you half-guessing
• Charge Port for where your RXV receptacle used to be
• Remote Wake-Up Button that powers the pack on and off, can be mounted anywhere you like (dash, body, etc.)
• 12-Volt Reducer/Converter - steps the pack’s 48V down to a safe 12V for your lights, radio and other golf cart accessories (optional add-on, and wiring it in is its own quick job that we don’t cover in this guide)
• Hardware - every nut, bolt and bracket you need
• The instruction booklet (and this guide, of course)

Tools You’ll Need

• A socket set (pretty much all 13mm and 14mm here)
• Torx bits for the dash and cover screws
• A drill with a 3/8" bit (to make the center-rod hole and the hold-down)
• A small pick or trim tool (the Gen-2 battery comm-cable clip can be stubborn)
• A handful of zip ties for cable management and keeping things clean
• A marker, to mark your drill hole
• Optional: A torque wrench (10 ft-lb for the hold-down, 8 ft-lb for the terminals)
• Your phone, with the EB Power app installed (this is the firmware step, don’t forget it)

Step-by-Step: RXV Gen 2 ELiTE Battery Replacement

Time Required: One morning or afternoon (3 to 4 hours your first time)
Difficulty Level: Moderate (if you can turn a wrench and follow along, you’re fine)

Step 1: Get Your Cart Ready

Pull the seat off and set it aside (it slides right off its hinges). Find the Tow/Run switch under the seat and flip it into TOW mode, then make sure the key is off (to prevent SHOCKERS baby!). These steps cut power while you work, which is exactly what you want when you’re about to put wrenches near battery terminals.

• Seat off
• Tow/Run switch to TOW
• Key OFF

Step 2: Remove the Controller Cover

Up front you’ve got a black plastic controller cover (under the passenger side). It has orange and white safety stickers on top. Take it off so you can get at the main wiring and the factory harness plug later on. Drop the screws in a cup or plastic ziplock (label it with a marker), you’ll thank yourself in about two hours when it’s time to put everything back.

Step 3: Disconnect the Battery Communication Plug

Your Samsung system has a communication plug (the “comm plug”) that lets the battery talk to the cart. Unplug that one first, before you loosen any of the big cables. On the Gen-2 packs that little locking clip can be stubborn, so if it won’t let go with your fingers, slip a small pick or trim tool under the tab and it’ll pop right off (don’t go yanking on the wires to force it).

Pro Tip: Snap a couple quick phone pics before you unplug anything. When you’re staring at connectors an hour from now, past-you looks like a genius. And if future-you gets too stuck, you can always put everything back how it was.

Step 4: Disconnect and Bundle the Battery Cables

Now the big cables. Loosen the main terminal cables off the Samsung pack, then group them together with a zip tie so they stay out of your way and you know which is which. Your main positive and main negative cables will be used with your new pack, so keep track of those.

Step 5: Remove the Battery Hold-Down Hardware

Undo the factory hold-down hardware that’s pinning the Samsung pack into the tray. The ECO kit gives you fresh hardware for the new battery, so this factory stuff is just coming off to free the pack and won’t be reused. You can toss it.

Step 6: Lift Out the Factory Samsung Pack

Stretch out those muscles, because here’s the big moment. Lift that white Samsung SDi battery pack up and out of the cart.

Safety Warning: this pack is not light, so brace your core and lift with your legs (not your back). If the angle is weird, grab a buddy for thirty seconds. Or your wife. Don’t be a hero!

Step 7: Measure and Mark for the Center Rod

Here’s where the Gen-2 install goes its own way from the Gen-1. Your 2022-and-up cart uses the “Thru Hole” pack, which anchors to the tray with a single center rod that runs up through the middle of the battery (instead of the side rods the older carts used). So before anything drops in, we mark where that rod is going to live.

The foolproof way: set your new Thru Hole pack down into the tray exactly where you want it to sit (terminals facing the passenger side), and mark straight down through the pack’s center hole onto the tray floor. That mark is your drill spot, and it’s guaranteed to line up because you marked it right through the battery itself.

For reference: on our shop cart that spot landed right around 11 1/2 inches in from the driver-side wall and about 5 3/4 inches back from the front of the tray. Measure and mark your own though, because a line drawn through your actual pack beats a number off a page every single time.

Step 8: Drill and Install the Center Rod

Lift the pack back out of the way and drill your marked spot with the 3/8" bit, straight down through the tray floor. Knock off any burrs so it’s clean, then thread the center rod down into that hole and lock it in with the hardware from your kit. Give it a wiggle when you’re done. It should stand up nice and straight, because this one rod is what’s holding your whole battery in place.

Step 9: Drop In the Battery and Torque the Hold-Down

Now the good part. Line the Thru Hole pack up over the center rod (terminals to the passenger side, remember) and lower it straight down so the rod comes up through the middle of the battery. Seat it flat in the tray, then run the hold-down hardware down onto the top of that rod and torque it to 10 ft-lb (that’s 120 inch-pounds if your wrench speaks inches). No torque wrench? Get it good and snug, then give it one half-turn past snug and you’re there.

Step 10: Remove the Side Skirts and Floor Mat

Before we get into the dash, we need a clear path to run the new gauge and wake-up cables under the floor. Both side skirts come off first with T45 Torx bolts (five on each side), then the floor mat lifts out once you pop its plastic rivets. Toss all that hardware in a cup, the little rivets love to roll off and hide, and you’ll want every one of them when it’s time to button things back up.

• Side skirts off (T45 Torx, five per side)
• Floor mat rivets out (keep them all)

Step 11: Remove the Lower Dash Trim (Cup Holders)

Your cup holder assembly is the lower dash trim piece. Three 10mm nuts hold it on from underneath, so loosen those up and lift the whole cup holder straight up and out. This opens up your lower dash so you have room to fish cables through this area. If you have a USB port, phone charger or other accessories wired into your dash then now is the time to unplug them or leave enough slack to swing it out of the way so they don’t get damaged.

Step 12: Remove the Upper Dash Trim (Mind the Cowl!)

4 x T30 Torx screws hold the upper dash trim in place on the RXV. And the moment that last T30 comes out, the whole front cowl is loose up top and can nose-dive toward the ground in front of your cart if nothing’s holding it. So keep a hand on it as you back out that final screw, or have a helper hold it for you. Once it’s loose, you can gently set the cowl down on the ground (but we recommend resting it on an empty box, so you’re not hanging any weight on your headlight wiring).

Step 13: Disconnect the Dash Electrical

Your upper dash is still tied to the cart by a few connectors. Unplug these so you can pull it away:

• Headlight and light connections
• Ignition switch connector
• Factory charge meter connector

Any plug with two or more wires in it, grab a picture first, because all of these connections need to go back in their original spots, or your headlights and accessories might not work the way you hope once you’re buttoned up. And the last thing we want to do is have to open up the dash again to fix any wires put in the wrong spot!

Okay, so once you have the connectors loose, lift the upper inside dash right out of the cart and set it on the bench, or nearby ground (on a blanket).

Step 14: Pop Out the Factory Charge Meter

After removing the dash, flip the upper dash piece over and find the backside of the old factory charge meter. Pinch the little tabs on each side of it and it will pop right out the front side of the dash. You won’t be needing this gauge anymore, because your new ECO state-of-charge meter is about to move right into that same spot. So you can either stick this old factory charge gauge on the shelf, or toss it (we usually toss them).

Step 15: Drop In the new State-of-Charge Gauge

Here’s a nice little break on the Gen-2 carts. Your factory ELiTE charge gauge and your new ECO state-of-charge meter are the exact same size. So there’s no hunting for a spot and no drilling on this one, the new gauge slides right into the opening where your old factory meter just came out a step ago. Line it up from the front, then fasten it down with the hardware from behind and you’re set. Same hole, way better gauge.

And here’s the backside, where the hardware locks it in place:

Step 16: Drill and Route the Wake-Up Button

Your kit comes with a remote wake-up button that gets mounted on your dash as well (it powers the pack on and off, without you having to lift the seat up to get to the battery each time), and now’s the time to get it in place. Grab a 5/8-inch bit and put a hole in the dash wherever you want the button, we like ours right next to the state-of-charge meter. Knock off any plastic burrs so it sits nice and flush, then hold the button in place with the nut from the bag, and thread it on from behind the button to lock it in place.

For the wake-up button cable we’ll just route it the same way we did with our SOC cable. Feed the non-button end down behind the dash, through the center channel, and up into the battery bay, stashing most of the slack down there so the dash stays clean. Then plug it into the orange comm connector from your battery kit.

Step 17: Route the SOC Gauge Cable and Connect BatteryCom

Alright, now we need to go the other way and route the SOC cables from inside the battery bay, through the floor channel and up to the gauge to give it power. So grab your State-of-Charge meter cable (it’s got two connectors on the end), and wrap some blue painter’s tape around the pair before you pull them through the floor channel - to keep them safe and to make them both easier to feed through. Starting at the battery bay, run the SOC cables the opposite direction this time, from the bay, under the kick panel (little wall that meets the floorboard) through that center floor channel and up behind the dash, right alongside the wake-up cable. Leave some slack in the bay and leave these connectors loose for now, we’ll finish them up shortly.

While you’re down in the bay, grab the 5-pin BatteryCom cable and plug it into COM Port 2 on the battery. That’s the line that lets your new battery pack and your gauge talk to each other, so make sure it is nice and tight.

Step 18: Reconnect your Dash Wiring

Time to get your dash back in and ready for action. Reconnect everything you unplugged earlier (this is where those photos come in handy). Reconnect:

• Both new gauge plugs onto the back of your new SOC meter
• The wake-up cable lead onto the back of the button itself
• Your ignition switch, back the way it was
• Your light connections (watch the stack order, top to bottom it’s black, then red, then yellow)
• Anything else you had plugged in up there

Step 19: Put the Dash Trim Back Together

Now just work backward through our teardown: side skirts first (5 x T45 per side), then the floor mat (all eight rivets back in their holes), the cup holder (it’s 3 x 10mm nuts), and last comes the upper dash trim up top (4 x T30 Torx). Take your time so everything is nice and tight and all your trim is flush. A rattle in the dash will drive you crazy on the very first ride, and won’t match how nice your new lithium setup is.

Step 20: Swap Factory Charge Port for the new Charge Port

Time for the charge port! Unplug the Deutsch connector (grey with orange inside, and light blue cable lead) from your factory charger interlock, pop off the charge port bezel, and install the new charge port in its place.

Step 21: Install the On Board Charger (OBC)

Set your new Charger (ours is the ECO Battery branded charger in this install) into the position you like best in your battery tray and mount it down solid (we use self tapping screws), then connect it to the charge port you just put in. Good lithium batteries include an OBC like this (on-board charger). This onboard charger rides in the cart with you, and lets you plug your cart into any standard 110v outlet, anywhere you go. So give it a good home where it’s not gonna rattle loose or get damaged!

Step 22: Handle the Charger Interlock

Small, quick step - but important. Your factory RXV kit’s charger interlock has a section on the end you won’t be using, so remove and toss that piece.

Step 22B: Connect the Interlock to Your Factory Harness

Then connect the charger interlock into your factory harness interlock (that’s the connector you freed up a couple steps back when you swapped the charge port). This is the safety handshake that tells your cart “hey, I’m plugged in, don’t go driving off,” so it won’t let you take off while you’re still on the charger.

Line the two halves up and push them together until they click home.

Step 23: Route the CAN and Charging Leads to the Terminals

Run your charger CAN line and the charging leads over toward the battery terminals so they’re sitting there ready to land. Keep them as neat as you can on the way over, because we’re about to hook everything up!

Step 24: Connect the Positive Terminal

Find your A-4136 harness (that’s your Gen-2 Samsung adapter). Its ring terminal goes to your battery positive. Stack your ring terminal, your charging lead, and your main battery positive cable onto the positive terminal, then torque to 8 ft-lb (96 inch-pounds).

• A-4136 ring terminal to positive
• Charging lead to positive
• Main battery positive cable to positive
• Torque to 8 ft-lb (96 in-lb), then snap the positive cover on

Step 25: Connect the Negative Terminal

Same thing over on the other side. We’ll need to place your negative charging lead and your factory negative cables onto the negative terminal, torque them down to 8 ft-lb (96 inch-pounds), and snap the negative cover on.

Step 26: Wire Up the CAN Communication

There’s two CAN connections coming off COM Port 2. Connect your charger CAN to one of them (doesn’t matter which one), and connect your A-4136 to the other. That’s your whole system talking to itself now: the battery, the charger and the adapter all working together.

Step 27: Plug the Harness In and Close the Controller Cover

Now we want to plug the harness connector into the factory plug, and then put your factory controller cover (with the black/orange warning stickers on it) back on. Take an extra thirty seconds to clean up any last connections so nothing’s flopping around loose down there. We love good cable management!

Step 28: Flip Your Cart to RUN mode and Reinstall Your Seat

Flip your Tow/Run switch back to RUN and set your seat back on the hinges. You’re basically done! But don’t skip the very last step.

Step 29: Update the Firmware and Test

Pull out your phone and make sure your battery is on the latest firmware using the EB Power app - or whatever brand battery you are using (it’s Bluetooth, and only takes a few minutes). This is the step people skip and then call us confused about. Once you’re updated, press the wake-up button switch and watch your new charge-gauge come alive!

Welcome to a Lot More Range

And that’s a wrap on your EZGO RXV ELiTE lithium battery replacement. Woohoo! You just took a Gen-2 RXV that was limping along on a worn-out factory Samsung SDi pack (or not moving at all) and gave it a battery that can likely outlast the cart itself! More range, more responsiveness, an app that tells you about your battery’s health, and a warranty that goes far beyond what you’re used to.

At right around $2,600 (105 Amp-Hour kit) with free shipping and that limited lifetime warranty, you came out with more battery than the OEM would’ve sold you for more money, and you did it in your own driveway. Next time somebody at the course is grumbling about their fading ELiTE pack, you’ll know exactly where to point them!

Need Help? We've got your back!

Got questions about your EZGO RXV ELiTE factory battery swap, or you’re still not sure if you’ve got a Gen 1 or a Gen 2? Give our Golf Cart Expert team a call at 1-844-422-7884. We sell and support more lithium batteries and factory replacements than just about anybody out there, and we’re always happy to make sure you get the right kit for your cart the first time around.

Written by Alex Sturwold

Alex Sturwold is the President of Golf Cart Tire Supply, and founder of the Golf Cart Sellers marketplace. Alex is a lifelong gearhead and vehicle expert, bringing over two decades of practical experience to GCTS including serving major industrial companies, such as Carlisle, during his years as an investment banker at Merrill Lynch. A resident of beautiful Arizona, Alex enjoys hitting the trails in side-by-sides, hiking, shooting guns and driving anything with a motor strapped to it. You can find him on LinkedIn

How to Replace Your Gen 1 RXV ELiTE Samsung Battery

If your EZGO RXV ELiTE was one of the first factory lithium carts on the block, then this is the article for you. For a good long while, that black Samsung SDI Lithium Battery pack under your cart's seat did its job just fine. But here we are. She's dead. OR, she's alive but the range isn’t what it used to be, the cart takes a bit longer on the charger than it should, and you’re starting to wonder what the fix is gonna cost you. Good news, you found the best article possible before you buy. Because your cart is about to get an UPGRADE (more range, more power, more battery features) for about $1,000 less than what a replacement Samsung battery would cost you.

We’ve been helping RXV owners get off tired factory packs since these ELiTE carts first showed up, and the number one thing we hear after the swap is the same thing the lead-acid crowd tells us: “I should’ve done this sooner.” Swapping your Samsung SDI system for a quality aftermarket lithium kit isn’t a lateral move back to stock. A good EZGO RXV lithium battery replacement is a real step up. More range, a smarter battery, and a warranty that will likely outlive the cart itself. And all the Factory EZGO RXV ELiTE conversion kits we sell drop right into the tray your RXV already has, easily.

Quick check to make sure you're in the right place: this guide is for Gen 1 RXV ELiTE carts, the ones with the BLACK Samsung battery (the 2017 to 2021 model years). Lift your seat and take a look at yours now. Black pack, you’re in the right spot. If you’ve got the WHITE Samsung SDi battery, that’s a Gen-2 and you’ll want our RXV Gen-2 Replacement guide instead, because a couple of these steps are different and we don’t want you ordering the wrong kit, or worse, getting halfway done with an install before you find out.

5 Reasons to Replace Your Samsung Battery With a Quality Aftermarket Brand

You already have a lithium cart, so you know how great they are. So for once, we get to save having to walk you through the whole “Lithium versus Lead-acid” benefits list (thankfully!). What actually matters here is why you would drop in an upgraded aftermarket pack (from a brand like ECO Battery or BOLT) over letting your EZGO dealer sell you the same old Samsung pack at a premium. Here’s the honest rundown (because Samsung does make great products in general).

1. Upgraded Aftermarket Batteries Give You More Than Your Cart Started With

The RXV ELiTE comes with a 60Ah Samsung SDi pack that was built for charge-range that felt great back in 2018 (about 20 miles per charge).

In comparison, a good aftermarket 105Ah pack will get you a real 30 to 45 miles on a full charge, and the power comes quicker than your factory battery's ever did (those instant bursts everyone loves). And if you've got an upgraded controller and/or electric motor, or a sound system and lights, the upgraded battery keeps up with feeding all your accessories easily. A quality lithium battery pack will easily manage heat too, which matters when your cart bakes in the Florida heat or gets used during the Arizona summers (like our shop carts do).

2. Your New Battery Warranty Will Outlive Your Cart

Most Gen-1 Lithium RXV carts left the factory with an 8-year battery warranty. Do the math on a 2017 to 2021 cart and that coverage is either already gone or circling the drain. The better aftermarket brands back their packs with a warranty the factory never dreamed of, some of them are even limited lifetime warranties. Lifetime. That’s the kind of number you can take to the bank, and it’s a big reason our customers stop considering OEM replacements and just call us for an upgrade that saves them cash at the same time.

3. You Can See Your Battery Health (Management App)

Your RXV ELiTE is amazing in so many ways, but something the EZGO factory never handed you is a way to actually see your own battery and what's going on with it. The lithium batteries we sell for RXVs all have apps that let your battery talk to your phone, so you can check your charge level from your living room, keep an eye on battery-cell health, and update your battery's brain (its firmware) yourself easily. Your old Samsung system was a sealed black box (literally, and figuratively) with no information visible to you as an owner.

4. Still Fits and Works Like the Factory Meant it To

The right battery replacement kit for your RXV Gen-1 cart comes with a pack that is properly shaped for the 2017 to 2021 battery tray/mold, and it's built to drop-in easily without having to hack-up your cart. No spacers stacked up high, no praying it will clear the seat. It goes right where the Samsung SDi came out (ECO calls their version the “Skinny” size). You’ll drill a couple hold-down holes and that’s the only “modifying" you'll need to do to get your kit in.

5. Lithium Golf Cart Battery Brands Live and Breathe Golf Carts

Lithium golf cart battery brands (ECO, ALLIED, BOLT, MODZ, etc.) focus on golf carts exclusively; it means they aren't busy making TVs, microwaves and dishwashers. They are busy making sure your BMS firmware is updated and studying the latest hardware in the carts coming off the assembly line at EZGO so you don't just get something that works to power your cart, you get what's best to power your cart.

What You’ll Need for the RXV ELiTE Battery Replacement

What you’re after is a EZGO RXV Lithium Battery Replacement made for the RXV ELiTE, from a brand such as ECO Battery or BOLT. Two things matter most here are:

1. Plug-and-play compatibility with your factory EZGO harness and accessories (that’s what keeps this a bolt-in job instead of a wiring nightmare).
2. Trusted firmware that won't cook anything on your cart (we only sell trusted brands here at the GCTS).

For this install, we’re walking through the ECO Battery factory RXV ELiTE replacement kit for the Gen1 Samsung swap. Right now it costs around $2,000 (60Ah) or $2,600 (105Ah), ships free, and both are much less than what the less-powerful factory replacement OEM Samsung unit costs. And the ECO kit here includes everything you need (comes in the box).

Here’s what comes in the RXV battery replacement kit (this is the ECO box we’re using):

• 48V 105Ah Pack - ECO's “Skinny” shape that fits your 2017-2021 RXV battery tray
• 48V CAN Charger - (15-amp, and it actually talks to the battery while it charges)
• The Samsung Adapter Harness, very important - because this is the little piece that lets an ECO battery pack speak fluent RXV and match up with all your cart's factory functions (part number A-4137)
• LCD Charge Meter - a real percentage readout, not four little bars that leave you half-guessing
• Charge Port for where your RXV receptacle used to be
• Remote Wake-Up Button that powers the pack on and off, can be mounted anywhere you like (dash, body, etc.)
• 12-Volt Reducer/Converter - protects your lights, radio and accessories from getting cooked (it’s technically an add-on, get it anyway)
• Hardware - every nut, bolt and bracket you need
• The instruction booklet (and this guide, of course)

Tools You’ll Need

• A socket set (pretty much all 13mm and 14mm here)
• Torx bits for the dash and cover screws
• A drill with a 3/8" bit (to make the hold-down holes)
• A handful of zip ties for cable management and keeping things clean
• A marker, to mark your drill holes
• Optional: A torque wrench (10 ft-lb for the hold-down, 8 ft-lb for the terminals)
• Your phone, with the EB Power app installed (this is the firmware step, don’t forget it)

Step-by-Step: RXV Gen 1 ELiTE Battery Replacement

Time Required: One morning or afternoon (3 to 4 hours your first time)
Difficulty Level: Moderate (if you can turn a wrench and follow along, you’re fine)

Step 1: Get Your Cart Ready

Pull the seat off and set it aside (it slides right off its hinges). Find the Tow/Run switch under the seat and flip it into TOW mode, then make sure the key is off (to prevent SHOCKERS baby!). These steps cut power while you work, which is exactly what you want when you’re about to put wrenches near battery terminals.

• Seat off
• Tow/Run switch to TOW
• Key OFF

Step 2: Remove the Controller Cover

Up front you’ve got a black plastic controller cover (under the passenger side). It has orange and white safety stickers on top. Take it off so you can get access to the solenoid underneath and the main wiring later on. Drop the screws in a cup or plastic ziplock (label it with a marker), you’ll thank yourself in about two hours when it’s time to put everything back.

Step 3: Disconnect the Battery Communication Plug

Your Samsung system has a communication plug (the "comp plug") that lets the battery talk to the cart. Unplug that one first, before you loosen any of the big cables.

Pro Tip: Snap a couple quick phone pics before you unplug anything. When you’re staring at connectors an hour from now, past-you looks like a genius. And if future-you gets too stuck, you can always put everything back how it was.

Step 4: Disconnect and Bundle the Battery Cables

Now the big cables. Loosen the main terminal cables off the Samsung pack, then group them together with a zip tie so they stay out of your way and you know which is which. Your main positive and main negative cables will be used with your new pack, so keep track of those.

Step 5: Remove the Battery Hold-Down Hardware

Undo the factory hold-down hardware that’s pinning the Samsung pack into the tray. The ECO kit gives you fresh hardware for the new battery, so this factory stuff is just coming off to free the pack and won't be reused. You can toss it.

Step 6: Lift Out the Factory Samsung Pack

Stretch out those muscles, because here’s the big moment. Lift that black Samsung SDi battery pack up and out of the cart.

Safety Warning: this pack is not light, so brace your core and lift with your legs (not your back). If the angle is weird, grab a buddy for thirty seconds. Or your wife. Don't be a hero!

Step 7: Free the Factory Mounting Rods and Reset the Tray

With the battery pack removed, those factory mounting rods won’t lift free on their own, so you’ll have to loosen the battery tray to work them loose. Pull the rods, take out the side rods too, then reinstall the tray with its hardware so you’ve got a nice clean base for the new ECO Battery pack to sit on.

• Undo the battery tray
• Pull the factory mounting rods
• Remove the side rods
• Reinstall the tray hardware

Step 8: Set and Mark Your New ECO Battery

Your Gen-1 kit ships the Skinny pack (you can choose the cube kit if you like, but we recommend the skinny) - it's the one shaped for the 2017-2021 tray. Drop it in with the terminals facing the passenger side (important), line it up where you want it to live, and mark your holes for the hold-down hardware with a permanent marker.

Note: Our install video also walks through the through-hole and cube-shaped packs, which use a slightly different bracket (the through-hole one gets a center rod). If you somehow ended up with one of those instead of the Skinny, jump to your battery type in the video. Once the pack is seated, every electrical connection from here on out is the same no matter which shape ECO kit you’ve got.

Step 9: Drill and Mount the Battery

Lift the new battery pack back out, drill on your marked hole spots with the 3/8" drill bit, then set the battery back down in the tray and run the hold-down hardware. Tighten it up and torque it to 10 ft-lb (that’s 120 inch-pounds if your wrench speaks inches). If you don't have a torque wrench, just get it snug and then give one half-turn beyond snug. 

Step 10: Remove the Side Skirts and Floor Mat

Before we get into the dash, we need a clear path to run the new gauge and wake-up cables under the floor. Both side skirts come off first with T45 Torx bolts (five on each side), then the floor mat lifts out once you pop its plastic rivets. Toss all that hardware in a cup, the little rivets love to roll off and hide, and you’ll want every one of them when it’s time to button things back up.

• Side skirts off (T45 Torx, five per side)
• Floor mat rivets out (keep them all)

Step 11: Remove the Lower Dash Trim (Cup Holders)

Your cup holder assembly is the lower dash trim piece. Three 10mm nuts hold it on from underneath, so loosen those up and lift the whole cup holder straight up and out. This opens up your lower dash so you have room to fish cables through this area. If you have a USB port, phone charger or other accessories wired into your dash then now is the time to unplug them or leave enough slack to swing it out of the way so they don't get damaged.

Step 12: Remove the Upper Dash Trim (Mind the Cowl!)

4 x T30 Torx screws hold the upper dash trim in place on the RXV. And the moment that last T30 comes out, the whole front cowl is loose up top and can then nose-dive toward the ground in front of your cart if nothing’s holding it. So keep a hand on it as you back out that final screw, or have a helper hold it for you. Once it’s loose, you can gently set the cowl down on the ground (but we recommend resting it on an empty box, so you’re not hanging any weight on your headlight wiring).

Step 13: Disconnect the Dash Electrical

Your upper dash is still tied to the cart by a few connectors. Unplug these so you can pull it away:

• Headlight and light connections
• Ignition switch connector
• Factory charge meter connector

Any plug with two or more wires in it, grab a picture first, because all of these connections need to go back in their original spots, or your headlights and accessories might not work the way you hope once you’re buttoned up. And the last thing we want to do is have to open up the dash again to fix any wires put in the wrong spot!

Okay, so once you have the connectors loose, lift the upper inside dash right out of the cart and set it on the bench, or nearby ground (on a blanket).

Step 14: Pop Out the Factory Charge Meter

After removing the dash, flip the upper dash piece over and find the backside of the old factory charge meter. Pinch the little tabs on each side of it and it will pop right out the front side of the dash. You won’t be needing this gauge anymore, because your new ECO state-of-charge meter is about to move right into that same spot. So you can either stick this old factory charge gauge on the shelf, or toss it (we usually toss them). 

Step 15: Mount the new State-of-Charge Gauge

Pick a spot on the dash for your new gauge (anywhere you like). We recommend a clean flat area right in the center or center-left. You can see where we do our own shop carts in the image below:

And here is what the backside of the gauge install will look like:

Step 16: Drill and Route the Wake-Up Button

Your kit comes with a remote wake-up button that gets mounted on your dash as well (it powers the pack on and off, without you having to lift the seat up to get to the battery each time), and now’s the time to get it in place. Grab a 5/8-inch bit and put a hole in the dash wherever you want the button, we like ours right next to the state-of-charge meter. Knock off any plastic burrs so it sits nice and flush, then hold the button in place with the nut from the bag, and thread it on from behind the button to lock it in place.

For the wakeup button cable we will just route it the same way we did with our SOC cable. Feed the non-button end down behind the dash, through the center channel, and up into the battery bay, stashing most of the slack down there so the dash stays clean. Then plug it into the orange comm connector from your battery kit.

Step 17: Route the SOC Gauge Cable and Connect BatteryCom

Alright, now we need to go the other way and route the SOC cables from inside the battery bay, through the floor channel and up to the gauge to give it power. So grab your State-of-Charge meter cable (it’s got two connectors on the end), and wrap some blue painter’s tape around the pair before you pull them through the floor channel - to keep them safe and to make them both easier to feed through. Starting at the battery/ battery bay, run the SOC cables the opposite direction this time, from the bay, under the kick panel (little wall that meets the floorboard) through that center floor channel and up behind the dash, right alongside the wake-up cable. Leave some slack in the bay and leave these connectors loose for now, we’ll finish them up shortly.

While you’re down in the bay, grab the 5-pin BatteryCom cable and plug it into COM Port 2 on the battery. That’s the line that lets your new battery pack and your gauge talk to each other, so make sure it is nice and tight.

Step 18: Reconnect your Dash Wiring

Time to get your dash back in and ready for action. Reconnect everything you unplugged earlier (this is where those photos come in handy). Reconnect:

• Both new gauge plugs onto the back of your new SOC meter
• The wake-up cable lead onto the back of the button itself
• Your ignition switch, back the way it was
• Your light connections (watch the stack order, top to bottom it’s black, then red, then yellow)
• Anything else you had plugged in up there

Step 19: Put the Dash Trim Back Together

Now just work backward through our teardown: side skirts first (5 x T45 per side), then the floor mat (all eight rivets back in their holes), the cup holder (it's 3 x 10mm nuts), and last comes the upper dash trim up top (4 x T30 Torx). Take your time so everything is nice and tight and all your trim is flush. A rattle in the dash will drive you crazy on the very first ride, and won't match how nice your new lithium setup is.

Step 20: Swap Factory Charge Port for the new Charge Port

Time for the charge port! Unplug the Deutsch connector (grey with orange inside, and light blue cable lead) from your factory charger interlock, pop off the charge port bezel, and install the new charge port in its place.

Step 21: Install the On Board Charger (OBC)

Set your new Charger (ours is the ECO Battery branded charger in this install) into the position you like best in your battery tray and mount it down solid (we use self tapping screws), then connect it to the charge port you just put in. Good lithium batteries include an OBC like this (on-board charger). This onboard charger rides in the cart with you, and allows you to plug your cart into any standard 110v outlet, anywhere you go. So give it a good home where it’s not gonna rattle loose or get damaged!

Step 22: Handle the Charger Interlock

Small, quick step - but important. Your factory RXV kit's charger interlock has a section on the end you won’t be using, so remove and toss that piece. Then connect the charger interlock into your factory harness interlock (that’s the connector you freed up a couple steps back when you swapped the charge port). This is the safety handshake that tells your cart “hey, I’m plugged in, don’t go driving off,” so it won’t let you take off while you’re still on the charger.

Step 23: Install and Wire the 12V Voltage Reducer

Your RXV ELiTE came with headlights (and you might have added a soundbar, USB ports, or other electronic accessories since then). All golf cart electronic accessories all run on 12-volts, and wiring them straight to a 48-Volt lithium pack cooks them fast. That’s exactly what the 12-volt reducer in your kit is for, it steps the battery’s 48V down to a safe 12V for all your low-voltage golf cart accessories. Mount it down in a back corner of the tray with the self-tappers (or anywhere in the tray that looks good to you), and then plug it into its harness.

Now that the Voltage Reducer is in place, we need to wire it up to work:

• Cut and strip back the reducer’s red and black wires using wire strippers. Then do the same for your accessory wires (headlights, sound bar, etc.) and then join them with butt connectors, red to red and black to black.
• The small yellow wire from the reducer will land on the battery positive, and the small black wire from the reducer will land on the battery negative (we’ll put those on the terminals in a couple steps, along with everything else).
• The orange wire is the one that talks to your solenoid, it’s what wakes the reducer up when you turn the cart on. Your controller cover is already off from way back in Step 2, so find the solenoid’s 13mm nut (it’s the one with a metal bar dropping down to the controller), loosen the bolt off, slip the orange ring terminal over the stud, and snug the 13mm bolt back down.

Step 24: Route the CAN and Charging Leads to the Terminals

Run your charger CAN line and the charging leads over toward the battery terminals so they’re sitting there ready to land. Keep them as neat as you can on the way over, because we’re about to hook everything up!

Step 25: Connect the Positive Terminal

Find your A-4137 harness (that’s your Samsung adapter). It's ring terminal goes to your battery positive. Stack your ring terminal, your charging lead, your main battery positive cable, and the reducer’s small yellow wire all onto the positive terminal, then torque to 8 ft-lb (96 inch-pounds).

• A-4137 ring terminal to positive
• Charging lead to positive
• Main battery positive cable to positive
• Voltage reducer’s small yellow wire to positive
• Torque to 8 ft-lb (96 in-lb), then snap the positive cover on

Step 26: Connect the Negative Terminal

Same thing over on the other side. We will need to place your negative charging lead, your factory negative cables, and the voltage reducer’s small black wire onto the negative terminal, torque them down to 8 ft-lb (96 inch-pounds), and snap the negative cover on.

Step 27: Wire Up the CAN Communication

There’s two CAN connections coming off COM Port 2. Connect your charger CAN to one of them (doesn’t matter which one), and connect your A-4137 to the other. That’s your whole system talking to itself now: the battery, the charger and the adapter all working together.

Step 28: Plug the Harness In and Close the Controller Cover

Now we will want to plug the harness connector into the factory plug, and then put your factory controller cover (with the black/orange warning stickers on it) back on. Take an extra thirty seconds to clean up any last connections so nothing’s flopping around loose down there. We love good cable management!

Step 29: Flip Your Cart to RUN mode and Reinstall Your Seat

Flip your Tow/Run switch back to RUN and set your seat back on the hinges. You’re basically done! But don't skip the very last step.

Step 30: Update the Firmware and Test

Pull out your phone and make sure your battery is on the latest firmware using the EB Power app - or whatever brand battery you are using (it’s Bluetooth, and only takes a few minutes). This is the step people skip and then call us confused about. Once you’re updated, press the wake-up button switch and watch your new charge-gauge come alive!

Welcome to a Lot More Range

And that’s a wrap on your EZGO RXV ELiTE lithium battery replacement. Woohoo! You just took a Gen-1 RXV that was limping along on a worn-out factory Samsung SDi pack (or not moving at all) and gave it a battery that can likely outlast the cart itself! More range, more responsiveness, an app that tells you about your battery's health, and a warranty that goes far beyond what you're used to.

At right around $2,600 (105 Amp-Hour kit) with free shipping and that limited lifetime warranty, you came out with more battery than the OEM would’ve sold you for more money, and you did it in your own driveway. Next time somebody at the course is grumbling about their fading ELiTE pack, you’ll know exactly where to point them!

Need Help? We've got your back!

Got questions about your EZGO RXV ELiTE factory battery swap, or you’re still not sure if you’ve got a Gen 1 or a Gen 2? Give our Golf Cart Expert team a call at 1-844-422-7884. We sell and support more lithium batteries and factory replacements than just about anybody out there, and we’re always happy to make sure you get the right kit for your cart the first time around.

Written by Alex Sturwold

Alex Sturwold is the President of Golf Cart Tire Supply, and founder of the Golf Cart Sellers marketplace. Alex is a lifelong gearhead and vehicle expert, bringing over two decades of practical experience to GCTS including serving major industrial companies, such as Carlisle, during his years as an investment banker at Merrill Lynch. A resident of beautiful Arizona, Alex enjoys hitting the trails in side-by-sides, hiking, shooting guns and driving anything with a motor strapped to it. You can find him on LinkedIn

Why Only 5 Batteries?

We usually do Top 10 lists for product roundups. But when it comes to a lithium golf cart battery where reliability and performance for your cart matter just as much as cost, we have narrowed it down to the 5 very best lithium golf cart battery conversion kits from brands we truly trust. Because even in 2026, there still are not even ten total brands out there that we’d feel truly comfortable recommending for your cart (especially with all the Amazon knock-offs out there). With this Top 5 list, you can rest assured that whichever battery you choose will be safe, powerful, last long and will be backed up with a warranty that will keep your cart performing for years.

After selling more than 1,260 lithium battery setups last year, we’re proud to present the Best Lithium Batteries for Golf Carts in 2026. Our Top 3 overall picks are listed below, but keep scrolling to see the full lineup and details of each battery and warranty.

The Top 3 Overall Picks (our "Podium")

Easiest to Install Lithium Battery

ECO Battery 48V 105ah Lithium Golf Cart Battery

Industry leader with compact size, reuses factory battery hooks, and super convenient cart specific install kits. Excellent, reliable performance.

Product Details

Best Quality, Tech & Warranty

MODZ Lithium 48V 105ah Golf Cart Battery

Industry first Limited Lifetime Warranty, designed with battery geniuses at EKT (can handle the demands of forklifts), built-in heater for top-tier performance in all weather.

Product Details

Best Bang-for-the-Buck Lithium Golf Cart Battery

ALLIED Battery 105AH Lithium Bundle

Great price and amazing performance from industry trusted veteran brand ALLIED. 105AH offers perfect power for most everyone's needs.

Product Details

The Full List: Best Lithium Golf Cart Battery

Lithium golf cart batteries have become the new standard for golf carts, replacing traditional lead-acid batteries for most golf cart manufacturers since 2020. And even if your cart didn't come from the factory with lithium batteries, it's easier than ever to convert your cart to lithium and get all the amazing lithium battery benefits, including faster charging, more miles per charge, more power, weight savings, and zero maintenance needs.

1. ECO Battery Thru-Hole Lithium Battery

ECO Battery has been leading the charge in the lithium golf cart battery space for several years now. Not only are these batteries top-tier quality, they are the easiest to install of any brand (thanks to "Thru Hole" design) and offer fitment across more carts than any other battery as well. And as if that wasn't good enough, ECO Battery also has one of the best performing BMS (Battery Management Systems) and one of the longest warranties (10+ Years) on the market. Add in the beautiful fit-and-finish of their black metal battery cases and it's not hard to see why multiple customers order this battery from us each day.

ECO Battery Features - Best Plug-and-Play Upgrade for Most Carts

Power Options: 36V / 48V / 72V
Capacity Distance Range: Between 65Ah (25 miles) and 150Ah (50+ miles)

• 36V: 105Ah
• 48V: 65Ah, 105Ah, 150Ah
• 72V: 105Ah

Why Our Customers Love It

• Easiest and Fast Install: Each battery comes with cart-specific mounting kit, and reuses factory components.
• Sleek, Compact Design: Fits many golf carts without the need for installation brackets.
• Works with Almost Everything: Fits more carts than any other Lithium Battery brand.

Product Details

2. MODZ Lithium Golf Cart Battery

Roaring into 2nd place on our list this year are the all new MODZ lithium golf cart battery setups. Designed by EKT (50 years of leading lithium manufacturing for forklifts), this battery is insanely impressive and comes with an industry first Limited Lifetime Warranty. MODZ has been making amazing accessories in the golf cart space for nearly 10-years now, so you can trust the MODZ brand name on your cart! And their new battery came ready to play with: a built-in internal battery heater (keeps your cart performing on those cold days), the best battery management Phone app we have ever seen, an incredibly impressive BMS unit and a price that makes you think you are getting a steal. We are incredibly impressed with these batteries, and our customers are already as well.

MODZ Lithium Battery Features

Power Options: 36V / 48V
Capacity Distance Range: Between 60Ah (20 miles) and 175Ah (60+ miles)

• 36V: 60Ah
• 48V: 60Ah, 105Ah, 175Ah

Why Our Customers Love It

• Incredible Quality: Built with EKT, the same company that needs to ensure forklift batteries last through thousands of grueling workdays.
• Feature-Packed: Built-in heater (ready for all weather), high-tech app to control and monitor battery, industry-leading BMS (battery management system) quality.
• Lifetime Warranty: An industry first Lifetime Limited Warranty, so you're not worried about wasting your hard-earned money.

Product Details

3. BOLT Lithium Golf Cart Battery

BOLT is not new to the lithium battery game, but we only began carrying the brand a little over a year ago. And wow, are we (and our customers) impressed. There is some serious engineering firepower going on at the BOLT Lithium Battery company. From their industry-leading battery case strength, to their top-tier BMS and easy install kits, BOLT knocked RoyPow off our list and sent ALLIED to #4 this year. We are certain that if you choose the BOLT green to power your machine, you will be extremely impressed with the ease of install and the performance you get.

BOLT Lithium Golf Cart Battery Features

Power Options: 36V / 48V / 72V
Capacity Distance Range: Between 65Ah (25 miles) and 160Ah (50+ miles)

• 36V: 105Ah
• 48V: 60Ah, 105Ah, 160Ah
• 72V: 105Ah

Why Our Customers Love It

• Easy and Fast Install: Cart-specific mounting kits eliminate any guesswork.
• Top-Tier Quality: High Performance BMS, Thickest Battery casing on the market, and heavy-duty hardware.
• Strong Warranty: New 12-Year warranty means you're covered for longer.

Product Details

4. ALLIED Lithium Golf Cart Battery

ALLIED Battery has grown into an industry leader in the lithium battery category, and a fan favorite when it comes to bang-for-your buck lithium battery conversion kits. Their older style kits have fallen out of favor with the launch of the new ALLIED RS series of lithium batteries. With an 8-year warranty, freshly upgraded BMS w/ internal solenoid, a standard "wake up" dash button and 36-Volt, 48-Volt, and 72-Volt setups for all cart models, ALLIED has proven to be a great seller. Only ECO and BOLT have outsold ALLIED in volume on our website in 2026.

Even with the updated RS series launching last year, Allied fell in our rankings a bit due to fierce competition from other high-quality brands. The 8-year Warranty is good, but not as good as the batteries listed above with 12-Year and Lifetime offerings. Still, you'll save a few hundred dollars and get a good battery for your money with Allied.

ALLIED Lithium Golf Cart Battery Features

Power Options: 36V / 48V / 72V
Capacity Distance Range: Between 60Ah (20 miles) and 175Ah (60+ miles)

• 36V: 72Ah
• 48V: 105Ah, 168Ah
• 72V: 105Ah

Why Our Customers Love It

• Value for Money: Strong performance without breaking the bank.
• Solid Warranty: 8-Years from a company who has been here for awhile. So you can trust you aren't lighting your money on fire.

Product Details

5. Trojan OnePack Lithium Golf Cart Battery

Even though industry veteran Trojan Battery is #5 on our list this year, keep in mind that this position is still ahead of 20 other lithium brands out there that never even made the list. And the OnePack is here for good reason, because Trojan Battery has been around 100 years. Yes, you read that correctly, one hundred years. So you know that the OnePack Lithium Golf Cart Battery brings reliability you can trust from an industry leader used for decades by the big manufacturers (Club Car, EZGO, and Yamaha). The Trojan name will cost you more up front... but you can count on it. We just wish the company offered more than just 48V applications.

Trojan OnePack Lithium Golf Cart Battery Features

Power Options: 48V
Capacity Distance Range: Between 105Ah (45+ miles)

• 48V: 105Ah, 171Ah

Why Our Customers Love It

• Legacy Brand: Strong performance without breaking the bank.
• Strong Warranty: 10-Years from a company who has been here for 100 years.
• Premium Quality: Good enough for the major OEMs.

Product Details

How to Choose the Right Lithium Battery for YOU

Now that you know the best brands, you need to decide how much range-per-charge (power) you need. Luckily, picking the right lithium battery isn’t complicated. The main factor to consider is how many amp-hours (Ah) you need, based on your cart’s accessories and the way you drive:

• Golf Course carts (basic golf carts, neighborhood cruising): 60Ah - 105Ah
• Lifestyle carts (longer drives, 3" or 6" lift kit installed, upgraded tires): 105Ah - 160Ah
• Heavily Modded carts (many electrical accessories, upgraded motor & controller, and 6"+ lift kits with large wheels and tires): 160Ah+

No matter which battery brand you choose from our website, you can rest easy knowing we are very choosy about what lithium battery brands we carry. Heck, there are over 30+ brands out there and we only choose to stock 6 of them, so no matter which one you choose you can trust you’re getting the best golf cart lithium battery available. You can also compare even more lithium options at LithiumGolfCartBatteries.com, a dedicated lithium golf cart battery store.

Read: How Much Does It Cost to Convert Your Golf Cart to Lithium Batteries?

We are always here to help you choose new lithium golf cart batteries or golf cart wheels and tires for your cart. Give us a call at 1-844-422-7884 today!

Written by Alex Sturwold

Alex Sturwold is the President of Golf Cart Tire Supply, and founder of the Golf Cart Sellers marketplace. Alex is a lifelong gearhead and vehicle expert, bringing over two decades of practical experience to GCTS including serving major industrial companies, such as Carlisle, during his years as an investment banker at Merrill Lynch. A resident of beautiful Arizona, Alex enjoys hitting the trails in side-by-sides, hiking, shooting guns and driving anything with a motor strapped to it. You can find him on LinkedIn

Golf cart wheels can be mounted on tons of different tire treads and overall tire sizes... so to keep things simple like we do every year, we have organized our list by the most popular wheels themselves. So you can ignore the pretty tires in the rankings (but most of the time we are indeed showing you the most popular tire combo with each wheel style as well).

This year, we have seen so many new and awesome golf cart wheels hit the market! From deep dish styles and high-quality ball milled finishes, a wide variety of 10", 12" and 14” styles have all made our list, and even our first 16-inch wheel made it this year. To get our 2026 list, we mixed historical sales with the current best sellers of the past several months, blended that up, and out came the results! And now, for the exciting part: the 10 Best Golf Cart Wheels of 2026! 

Best Golf Cart Wheels of 2026

10. 12" VULCAN Golf Cart Wheels

Two years ago, TREX absolutely knocked it out of the park with their new 12" VULCAN golf cart wheels. Available in three beautiful finishes, the first batch we got last year sold out in under one week, and the sales haven't slowed down since. Customers love this unique wheel style, which reminds us of flames. And we love it too!

And as if they were listening directly to our wishes last year... TREX now offers this in a 14" size! It's very beautiful and incredibly sporty in person. Sure to dress up any golf cart. If you want to bring an aggressive, but refined look to your golf cart, then look no further than the VULCAN golf cart wheels.

Wheel Features:

• Totally unique design, introduced just 2-years ago
• 3 distinct finishes, Gloss Black, Metallic Bonze and Gunmetal / Machined
• As we wished, now offered in both 12-inch and new 14-inch size as well!

Product Details

9. 14" ATLAS Golf Cart Wheels

Introduced in 12 inch size back in 2021, the TREX ATLAS wheel quickly grew to be one of the best selling wheels in the industry. 2025 saw the 14 inch version of this very popular wheel get introduced, which further pushed its popularity last year.

It's no surprise this wheel has stuck on our list for several years running with its TRD inspired looks. Add to that the fact that it comes in three different sizes and two distinct finishes, and it's no surprise it made our list again.  Not only do these wheels completely change the look of any golf cart, but they do a great job balancing the elements of class and sporty automotive design all at once.

Wheel Features:

• 14x7 size, 3+4 Negative Offset (good for use with both street tires or all terrain)
• 7-Spoke Offroad inspired concave design
• Offered in two great finishes: High-gloss Black and Machined/Black
• Offered in 10 inch and 12 inch, and 14 inch wheel sizes

Product Details

8. 16" BLUR Golf Cart Wheels 

While 2025 was a step in the right direction, we're happy to see GTW finally catch up with its design game for 2026 with the all new 16" BLUR. Yes, a 16" wheel has made the list for the first time! These all-new wheels feature an intricate multi-spoke automotive design. This wheel caught our eye the second we saw them at the PGA show this year. And we have seen instant demand from customers already this year.

Wheel Features:

• Multi-spoke, intricate design
• Offered in four finishes: Gloss Black (pictured), Machined/Black, Matte Bronze, Gloss White
• Only offered in 16" size at this time (unfortunately)

Product Details

7. 14" VOODOO Golf Cart Wheels

The 14" VOODOO golf cart wheel from Steeleng has been incredibly popular since 2015. Last year, for 2026, the VOODOO saw a requrgence in purchases thanks to its clean offroad look. With a full gloss black face and multi-spoke construction, your cart is sure to stand out with a set of these wheels on your cart. Paired with the popular 20x8.5-14 STINGER tires (first image), this combo fits most all golf carts without a lift kit.

Wheel Features:

• Longstanding best seller on our site, so you know everyone will love them on your cart
• Only available in Gloss Black finish
• Only offered in 14 inch wheel size

Product Details

6. 14" VENOM Golf Cart Wheels 

The VENOM is an industry classic golf cart wheel that continues to sell well every year. These truck inspired wheels with full gloss black finish and your choice of red, blue or silver accents became an instant hit with our customers. Similary styles are offered by LSI (called the VENOM) which also made our list last year.

Wheel Features:

• Sleek gloss black multi-spoke design, with great accent color options (red, blue, machined)
• Modern looking wheel, stands out 
• Available in 12" and 14" sizes

Product Details

5. 14" HD3 Golf Cart Wheels

The HD3 is a classic wheel style that has been around for more than 12 years now. And that is because this design is aging like a fine wine. In fact, the design is so good that the newer 14 inch version of this golf cart wheel came in at number 5 on our list this year (and #3 back in 2025)!

The HD3 provides an automotive motorsport inspired look, and gives any cart upgraded style points. This wheel is known for beautiful machining, strong construction and good looks. It brings a level of clean sophistication to any golf cart.  

Wheel Features:

• 14" size, offers big clean looks
• Unique inner step-lip, adds depth to the wheel design 
• 8-spoke motorsport styling, available in two finishes: Machined/ Black and Gloss Black
• Offered in 10 inch, 12 inch and 14 inch wheel sizes

Product Details

4. 14" BLITZ Golf Cart Wheels 

The all new and fresh 14" BLITZ wheel from TREX has been flying off our shelves since it was introduced for the 2026 season. Offered in either a Chrome or Black/Milled finish, this wheel will absolutely elevate the look of your cart. Best of all, even with its stunning deep dish looks it's still a traditional 14x7" in size, meaning you won't have any clearance issues running this on any golf cart make or model.

Currently the BLITZ is that it is only offered in the 14-inch size. We'd love to see a 12-inch version and a 15-inch size introduced next year. But with gorgeous high-end truck and offroad inspired styling, we are sure these will be the coolest wheels on any cart in your neighborhood!

Wheel Features:

• High-end and intricate, offroad truck inspired design
• Offered in two distinct finishes: Black/Milled and Chrome
• Only offered in 14" wheel size

Product Details

3. 12" MAVERICK Golf Cart Wheels

Clocking in 3rd place this year, and one of the absolute best selling wheels in the world right now are the 12" MAVERICK golf cart wheels. The MAVERICK took the industry by storm back in 2019, with its insane truck-inspired good looks and two classic finishes of High-Gloss Black or Metallic Bronze, this wheel contintues to dominate customer demand. 

TREX released this wheel in both a 14" size in 2024 and a 10" size in 2025, in addition to the incredibly popular 12" size! We can't keep these MAVERICK wheels on our shelves. And it is no different this year either.

Wheel Features:

• Uniform flared 6-spoke design
• Concave wheel shape gives the overall design extra depth  
• Comes in two finishes: Metallic Bronze or High-Gloss Black 
• Available in 10", 12" and 14" sizes

Product Details

2. 14" OPTIMUS Golf Cart Wheels

The 14" OPTIMUS is the most pre-ordered wheel we have ever featured on our website. With it's concave offroad good looks and colored-ball mill details this wheel will have every other golf cart owner in your neighborhood jealous for sure.

Offered in 5 distinct finishes: Black/ Radiant Orange, Black/ Radiant Red, Black/ Radiant Blue, Black/ Milled, and Gloss White. These milled and high-end wheels will have everyone staring at your cart and asking where you got them.

Wheel Features:

• Flared 8-spoke design, with beautiful milling and color details
• Available in five awesome finishes: Radiant Orange, Red, Blue, Black/Milled, and Gloss White
• Only offered in 14" size currently

Product Details

1. 14" SPARTAN Ball Milled Golf Cart Wheels

Holding firm at our #1 best wheel of the year is the 14" SPARTAN golf cart wheel. As TREX says on their company website, get your cart ready for battle on the street or course with the incredibly bold SPARTAN Gloss Black/Milled golf cart wheels.

These SPARTAN golf cart wheels are some of the most eye catching we have seen on the market (especially in person). And that is due to their "milled" CNC finish on all of the silver bits you see on the wheel. This leads to incredibly bright machined aluminum pieces sitting over gloss black paint.

Introduced in 2024 as a 14" Wheel, the 12" version quickly followed for 2025 due to popularity. The milled finished on the SPARTAN wheels cost slightly more than regular machined wheels, but they also look more elegant than regular machined wheels, and sit a level above what regular golf cart wheels do. Get a set for your cart and stand out from the rest today!

Wheel Features:

• Milled aluminum details give an insane pop 
• Unique design with high attention to detail on finishes
• Available in 12" and 14" sizes
• Only available in one finish currently, which is Gloss Black w/ Milled

Product Details

Shop the Most Popular Golf Cart Wheels

Every year, golf cart wheels seem to get bigger in size and their deisgns get more elevated. And with so many different styles of golf cart wheels available on the market, it can be hard to choose the best ones for your cart. Our best piece of advice when choosing wheels and tires is just choose what you like best, and don't worry about what the market is saying!

Wheel fads come and go over time, but we here at the Golf Cart Tire Supply make it our priority to curate the very best wheel offerings only from trusted companies who have been around the block. We are authorized retailers of the largest golf cart wheel and tire brands on the market. So you know you're always shopping popular styles you can actually trust. It's as easy as that! And we are always here to help you choose new golf cart tires or golf cart wheels and tires for your cart. Call us (or chat with us) any time!

Written by Alex Sturwold

Alex Sturwold is the President of Golf Cart Tire Supply, and founder of the Golf Cart Sellers marketplace. Alex is a lifelong gearhead and vehicle expert, bringing over two decades of practical experience to GCTS including serving major industrial companies, such as Carlisle, during his years as an investment banker at Merrill Lynch. A resident of beautiful Arizona, Alex enjoys hitting the trails in side-by-sides, hiking, shooting guns and driving anything with a motor strapped to it. You can find him on LinkedIn

Each year, we tend to do Top 10 lists for most of the product articles we write, but when it comes to golf cart tires there are several different tread types so there isn't "one best" tire to rule them all. Instead, we have broken our list down into a Top 3 for each category below:

• Best golf cart tires for Pavement (Street) / Turf
• Best All Terrain golf cart tires
• Most popular OEM sized golf cart tires

The data is in, and we have carefully crunched our huge library of purchase data from the past year. Without further ado, are proud to present the Best Golf Cart Tires on the market in 2026! Our three overall category winners are right here below, but scroll down to check out the full list of all 9 tires. It was even harder to choose our winners this year with so much good product on the market!

Best Golf Cart Tires for Pavement (Low Profile)

TREX StreetGlide & ComfortGlide Radial Golf Cart Tires

Smooth, quiet, and 1st place 3-Years running. We just can't find a better street tire than the StreetGlide or ComfortGlide from TREX.

Product Details

Best All Terrain Golf Cart Tires

Arisun X-ARMORY Golf Cart Tires DOT Hybrid All Terrain

Golf course safe, buttery smooth on the street and can still hook on trails. This Hybrid All-Terrain tread pattern is one of the best dang tires out there.

Product Details

Best OEM Replacement Golf Cart Tires

SGC Slasher GTX 18x8.50-8 Golf Cart Tires

Inexpensive traditional tire replacements that instantly refresh your cart's ride and performance on turf and paths.

Product Details

Best Golf Cart Tires for Pavement

Golf carts continue to get used off the golf course just as much as they do on one, because for many families their carts are the primary way they get around their neighborhood. This has lead to a need for golf cart tire brands to create better tires each year that can be gentle enough for the grass at the country club, but not so soft that they will wear down quickly on the streets. And for 2026 we are again blown away by the quality of tires that continue to hit the market.

For 5-years running we have been telling you that Radial golf cart tires are here to stay, and it's no different this year. So don't be surprised to see a several radial tires on our list this year! Because Radial tires offer two major benefits over Bias-ply tires when it comes to your golf cart:

1. They reduce rolling resistance to get you more miles per charge / better gas mileage.
2. They have a longer tread life that traditional bias-ply golf cart tires.

1. TREX StreetGlide and ComfortGlide Steel Belted Radial Golf Cart Tires

TREX continues to dominate our street tire rankings with their StreetGlide and ComfortGlide lineups of tires. These tires will completely change the ride quality of your cart to be the smoothest possible, and additionally give you better battery / fuel efficiency for your cart due to the reduced rolling resistance they provide (true radials).

All TREX street golf cart tires are Radial Only, meaning longer tread life and true shape holding construction like car tires. While most golf carts max out around 25-35mph, the TREX StreetGlide tires have a speed rating of "N", which means these tires can theoretically handle up to 87mph. TREX offers both the StreetGlide (low profile) and ComfortGlide (taller cushy profile) radial tires for all golf cart wheel sizes, including 10", 12" and 14" applications. 

Tire Features:

• Radial tire design allows tire to hold true shape better.
• Made from industry leading quality gum-rubber.
• Smoothest ride due to tire expanding less during use (radial heat resistance).
• Reduced rolling resistance leads to more miles per charge / better gas mileage.
• Offered in sizes for 10 inch, 12 inch, and 14 inch golf cart wheels.

Product Details

2. Kenda Kruizer LE Radial Golf Cart Tires

The new Kenda Kruizer LE model blew our customers away last year (just look at the reviews on the listings). With an incredibly smooth and true ride and automotive looks, this tire has been winning customers over - especially in the 215/40R12 size and 205/35R14 size. With its steel belted radial construction, these tires provide long lasting tread-life, are gentle on both turf and grass (turf safe), and give your cart the ultimate street traction when you need it. 

Because the Kruizer LE is a true Steel Belted radial and non-directional it knocked the standard Kenda Kruizer Sport (last year's #2 street tire) off our list this year.

Tire Features:

• Steel Belted Radial Construction
• Unique sports car inspired directional tread pattern
• Offered in several sizes for 12 inch and 14 inch wheels

Product Details

3. Wanda P825 Golf Cart Tires

The majority of golf cart tires still come from the manufacturer with more affordable bias-ply (non-radial) tires on them and that is because they are less expensive for cart owners to replace and also because golf carts rarely exceed 25mph. So when it comes to replacing your tires with a trustworthy and affordable option, the Wanda P825 is still the king. This was our #3 best selling street tire from the entire year (the past two years running) and comes in almost every size you can imagine for all 10", 12", 14" and even 15" golf cart wheels.  

Why do we love the Wanda P825 tires? They're a great value (read: cheap). The rubber quality is excellent! They last a long time for being a bias-ply design. In fact, most of our low profile golf cart wheels and tires combos come with this tire mounted on this tire due to its popularity.

Tire Features:

• Low price, but high quality
• Industry trusted tread pattern design
• Non-directional tires
• Offered in sizes for 10 inch, 12 inch, 14 inch and 15 inch golf cart wheels

Product Details

Best All Terrain Golf Cart Tires

All Terrain tires were created for golf carts to allow cart owners to take their carts more places than just the street and paved paths. And over the years, this style of tire has completely evolved from loud balloons that allowed you to drive on gravel, into some of the absolute smoothest riding and best looking tire offerings on the market. And that is all thanks to the introduction of Hybrid All Terrain tires. Hybrid All Terrain golf cart tires allow you to drive on the street, trails and even the golf course (yes, they are course safe thanks to 7mm or less tread depth!). This has made Hybrid ATs incredibly popular the last 3 years or so, and landed a couple on our list this year as well.

1. ARISUN X-Armory Hybrid All Terrain Golf Cart Tires (Golf Course Safe)

Arisun is not new to the golf cart tire world. In fact, we were the first Arisun golf cart tire retailer in the USA back in 2016 (10 years ago!). Arisun took the golf cart tire market by storm with low cost tires that provided great ride quality. As the brand has grown, so has the level of their product offering and trust amongst our customers. And over the past 2-years, the ARISUN X-ARMORY Hybrid All Terrain tire has really begun to impress cart owners.

This Hybrid All Terrain tire is not only one of the smoothest All Terrain tires we have ever tested (thanks to its Steel Belted Radial construction) it is also Turf Safe and 6-ply (heavy duty). These tires will COMPLETELY change the ride of your cart to be the smoothest and most capable on the market while giving you aggressive looks and the ability to still drive your cart on the course: all from a single tire style! The only drawback our customers point out is that since the tread depth is 6.5mm, they aren't as grippy in sand or on the trail as true All Terrain tires are.

Tire Features:

• Golf Course Safe All Terrain tire (thanks to 6.5mm tread depth)
• Super smooth ride quality that is ultra quiet as well
• Awesome styling that is DOT Approved
• Made in sizes for both 12 inch and 14 inch golf cart wheels

Product Details

2. TREX ARTEMIS DOT All Terrain Golf Cart Tires (P3118)

Bumping the older-style Wanda P3026 All Terrain DOT tire off our list is this awesome smoother replacement: the TREX ARTEMIS P3118 golf cart tire (Artemis / Ironclad). This tire was designed by TREX in conjunction with Wanda and is a high-performing All Terrain Tire that can handle anything you throw at it, while riding smoother on the street than the traditional style P3026 (triangle pattern tire). It's so good, that Evolution EV uses it as its factory tread pattern on most of its carts!

This tire style came in strong at #1 in overall sales for All Terrain tires this past year with good reason: functional styling and high-quality. These tires provide a smooth ride on the street and good traction on all trails and surfaces in both wet and dry conditions. While not technically golf course safe, these won't tear up your grass either. The P3118 has a non-directional tread pattern, meaning they are easy to replace one at a time when needed.

Tire Features:

• Awesome looking truck-style tread pattern, that isn't overly aggressive
• DOT Approved design (street approved), rides smooth!
• Non-directional tire
• Offered in sizes for 10 inch, 12 inch, and 14 inch golf cart wheels

Product Details

3. XCOMP Gladiator Golf Cart Tires Hybrid All Terrain (Golf Course Safe)

The XCOMP Gladiator golf cart tires have continued to be one of the very best tires on the market in 2026. An All Terrain tire you can take to the Clubhouse? Yes, please. The XCOMP Gladiator is also a Hybrid All Terrain tire. With a shallow tread depth of under 8mm, this tire won't damage the fairways at your golf course, even with its good looks and trail capabilities.

The versatility of having a badass looking tire, that you can take on the golf course, the street and the trails is what has catapulted the XCOMP Gladiator golf cart tires into one of the top spots for all terrain tires this year. While not as grippy as true All Terrain tires are in the sand or on the trail, they still get the job done. The only thing that knocked the X-COMP Gladiator backwards into 3rd this year is that it is a bit expensive. But with a huge range of tire sizes to choose from for all golf cart wheels, we are sure you'll love having these on any cart as much as our customers do!

Tire Features:

• Hybrid All Terrain tread pattern (golf course safe).
• Incredibly smooth and quiet DOT Approved ride quality (safe for the street).
• Great looking design, dresses up any cart.
• Tons of sizes offered for all 10", 12", 14" and 15" golf cart wheels.

Product Details

Top Selling OEM Sized Golf Cart Tires

The best selling factory sized replacement golf cart tires on our website from the last year are below. While not all of these tires are a factory OEM sawtooth tread pattern, these are the traditional sized (18x8.50-8) tires that customers are purchasing the most right now. Believe it or not, not much changed in our data for these styles since 2025.

1. SGC Slasher 18x8.50-8 Sawtooth Golf Cart Tires

The SGC Slasher GTX is a sawtooth golf cart tire that provides minimal compaction on the grass at your country club, but still gives you the traction you need on cart paths. This tire will save you money compared to the industry classic Kenda Hole-N-1 tire, but delivers quality you have come to expect from SGC / Steeleng golf cart tires. Low price and trusted quality is the reason so many of our customers choose to purchase this tire for their carts.

The sawtooth tread pattern on this tire is the industry standard when it comes to OEM Golf Cart Tires. Long lasting, with a smooth and gentle touch on turf (turf safe) and perfect wet and dry weather traction on pavement. This tire fits all 8" golf cart wheels (OEM size).

Tire Features:

• 845 lbs. load capacity from SGC
• Turf Safe OEM factory replacement tire
• Most popular golf cart tire size on the market (18x8.5-8)

Product Details

2. Wanda 18x8.50-8 Turf Golf Cart Tires

Holding firm at #2 for OEM tires this year is the Wanda P332 18x8.50-8 Turf Tire. When replacing your basic factory sawtooth style 18x8.50-8 golf cart tires, many of our customers decide to use the opportunity to upgrade their tread pattern / style a bit to gain extra performance. This Turf Tread is perfect for giving your cart the ability to drive over gravel and other surfaces more easily than fully traditional sawtooth tires.

Customers love these tires because they are both inexpensive and versatile being able to tackle turf (golf course safe), sand, loose gravel / trails, and the street. With slightly deeper tread blocks than a traditional OEM sawtooth tread pattern, you will instantly notice the increased traction on your cart with these tires installed.  

Tire Features:

• Fits on ALL golf carts
• Mounts on ALL 8-inch golf cart wheels
• Provides increased performance on turf, grass, gravel and sand compared to OEM tires
• Inexpensive replacement for factory sized 18x8.50-8 golf cart tires

Product Details

3. RXAL 18x8-8 All Terrain Golf Cart Tires

The RXAL has been one of the best sellers on our website every single year for 10+ years. And that is because it is delivers more performance than basic sawtooth golf cart tires or turf tires can, for about the same price. The RXAL gives you "mini" All Terrain versatility in a non-aggressive and OEM sized package!

Best of all, these tires still ride smooth on the street and are gentle on grass. Most importantly, they provide an incredible ride for their size and unlock the ability to tackle gravel and mild trails.

Tire Features:

• Unlocks new potential for your cart on gravel, trails and tall grass
• Fits on ALL golf carts (OEM sized)
• Mounts on all 8" Golf Cart Wheels
• Inexpensive replacement for OEM 18x8.5-8 golf cart tires

Product Details

Summing it All Up

There has never been a better time to be replacing your golf cart tires, because the options on the market in 2026 have gotten so good. That said, there are many different styles and sizes you can go with when it comes to golf cart tires. This makes buying tires for your cart both fun and slightly challenging, since you have lots of options and need to ensure fitment. The thing we suggest to all our customers is following these four rules when it comes to buying golf cart tires:

1. Decided if you want Street/Turf  tires or All Terrain tires
2. Next, choose whether you want your cart to be lifted or non-lifted
3. Decide if you want newer style Radial Tires (more expensive) or classic Bias-Ply tires
4. Choose your favorite style tread pattern for the ride you want, and choose a trusted brand

It's as easy as that, and we are always here to help! We only carry the best brands on the market and will make sure you choose the best new golf cart tires or golf cart wheels and tires for your cart! Just give us a call at 1-844-422-7884 today. The Golf Cart Tire Supply is your home for the best products to outfit your cart for life's adventures.

Written by Alex Sturwold

Alex Sturwold is the President of Golf Cart Tire Supply, and founder of the Golf Cart Sellers marketplace. Alex is a lifelong gearhead and vehicle expert, bringing over two decades of practical experience to GCTS including serving major industrial companies, such as Carlisle, during his years as an investment banker at Merrill Lynch. A resident of beautiful Arizona, Alex enjoys hitting the trails in side-by-sides, hiking, shooting guns and driving anything with a motor strapped to it. You can find him on LinkedIn

Cost to Convert Golf Cart to Lithium Battery

Have you thought about upgrading your golf cart to lithium power? You’re not alone. Thousands of our golf cart owning customers are making the switch each year to experience the awesome lithium benefits of faster charging, lighter weight, more mileage-per-charge, better performance, and the reliability (no maintenance either!). And while we have a guide on how to convert your cart, most customers just want to know the burning question: "how much does it cost to convert?". And we know this, because we get asked daily!

So if you’re searching for the cost to convert golf cart to lithium, here’s both the quick answer followed by a detailed breakdown covering:

• The average cost of most kits
• What’s included in most lithium setups
• What affects the price of your setup
• How lithium saves you money (and time) long-term

Written by Alex Sturwold

Alex Sturwold is the President of Golf Cart Tire Supply, and founder of the Golf Cart Sellers marketplace. Alex is a lifelong gearhead and vehicle expert, bringing over two decades of practical experience to GCTS including serving major industrial companies, such as Carlisle, during his years as an investment banker at Merrill Lynch. A resident of beautiful Arizona, Alex enjoys hitting the trails in side-by-sides, hiking, shooting guns and driving anything with a motor strapped to it. You can find him on LinkedIn

Converting your EZGO RXV from traditional lead-acid batteries to lithium is one of the best upgrades you can make for your golf cart. After helping 1,000+ RXV owners make these conversions since 2023, we can tell you that the biggest thing our customers say is "Wow, I wish I had done that sooner!".

That said, the EZGO RXV has always been a strong performer. And the factory lead-acid battery setup that RXVs come with is a good power system. But in the year 2025, if your RXV doesn't have a lithium battery pack in it you are certainly missing out. So if you're looking to get lots more from your RXV (and I mean really improve your use), converting to lithium will give you some pretty serious advantages over lead-acid power. And we're going to show you how today in this helpful hand-holding guide below!

5 Reasons to Convert Your EZGO RXV to Lithium (Great Benefits)

If your RXV cart has older style lead-acid batteries, these things might sound familiar to your:

• Your cart loses power after short periods of use, or gets "tired" (giving you less power) near the end of it's charge levels
• You sometimes spend hours waiting for your batteries to charge because you forgot to plug your cart in the night before
• Every so often, you are frustrated about having to maintain your batteries (watering them, cleaning them, trickle charging every time you're not driving)

If you have dealt with any of these things... then this RXV lithium conversion guide is exactly what you need. But before we dive into the conversion steps, let's touch quickly on why so many EZGO RXV owners are making the switch to lithium golf cart batteries (and why you will want to). The benefits have litereally changed the entire golf cart industry, forcing all the major brands (like EZGO, Club Car and Yamaha) to begin offering lithium options from the factory. And here's why:

1. Massive Weight Savings

Your factory 12-volt lead-acid batteries (4 of them) weigh a big-old 340 pounds total (85 pounds each). One single lithium battery pack weighs just 100 pounds. That's a 240-pound weight reduction that makes your cart more efficient, faster, and gives you significantly better power-to-weight ratio out of the gate. Your RXV will literally feel like a different machine!

2. Zero Maintenance (We Mean ZERO)

Unlike traditional batteries that require regular watering, cleaning off corrosion, and perfect trickle charging, lithium batteries require absolutely zero maintenance. Charge them when they're low and that's it! No more monthly (or, let's be honest, annual) battery maintenance sessions.

3. Consistent Power Until the Very End

Here's the big one that our customers love. Lithium batteries work just like your cell phone, you could have 3% battery left and still have 100% power available. No more watching your cart slowly die and lose power halfway through your ride.

4. Lightning-Fast Charging

Lithium batteries fully charge in 2-3 hours (with 80% charge in just 1 hour) compared to 8-10 hours for traditional batteries. Game changer for busy lifestyles! And so convenient for those times you forget to plug your cart in.

5. They Live Forever (Almost)

With lithium golf cart batteries, you'll get 8-10 years out of a quality setup, versus 5-6 years from traditional lead-acid batteries. The ECO Battery we're installing today actually comes with a 10-year warranty (that's confidence you can take to the bank)!

What You'll Need for This EZGO RXV Lithium Conversion

For this install, we're using the ECO Battery 48V 105AH Lithium Conversion Kit, which is one of the best kits on the market. This particular EZGO RXV lithium conversion kit is great because of its "through-hole" mounting, which makes installation straightforward and slightly faster than other battery setups.

Still, most lithium conversion kits will be installed in a similar fashion to the one we are using in this article, so if you got ALLIED, Trojan, Dakota, or another brand you can still follow along here for your install.

Here's what comes in most EZGO RXV 48V Lithium Battery Conversion Kit bundles:

• 48V 105AH Lithium Battery: Gives you 40-45 miles of range (awesome for any golf cart!)
• Mounting bracket: To fasten your battery into your cart's battery tray
• On-board charger: Mounts right in your battery tray, charge anywhere with regular house plug
• 110V charging receptacle: Replaces your old factory charge port
• State of charge meter: Basically acts like a fuel gauge on your dash
• Wake-up button: Turn on your battery from dash instead of lifting seat each time
• Voltage reducer: Optional Add-on, protects your 12V accessories like headlights
• Hardware and connectors: To hook everything up

Tools You'll Need for RXV Lithium Conversion

• Socket set (14mm, 13mm, 10mm, 9/16", 1/2", 7mm)
• Torx bits (T50, T45, T30, T27)
• Power drill with 3/8" and 5/8" bits
• Battery strap (this is critical for safely removing heavy 12V RXV batteries)
• Plastic rivet removal tool
• Zip ties and electrical tape
• Permanent marker
• If you are adding a voltage reduce with your new battery, you will need:
  • Wire strippers and crimpers
  • Butt connectors and ring terminals

Step-by-Step EZGO RXV Lithium Conversion

Time Required: One morning or afternoon
Difficulty Level: Moderate DIY (if you can change car batteries, you can do this)
Tools Needed: Socket set, drill, Torx bits, basic hand tools, and wire crimper (if adding voltage reducer)

Take your time with this conversion. It's really not bad if you take it slow. We're going to walk you through every detail to make this as easy as possible!

Step 1: Get Your Cart Ready

Remove the seat (just lifts straight up on RXV models, and pops right off the hinges), flip the run/tow selector to TOW mode (prevents electrical shock), turn ignition to OFF and set your parking brake.

Step 2: Disconnect Existing Battery Cables

Using a 14mm socket, start disconnecting all the battery cables. We won't need most of these anymore, but you will need to keep two cables for your lithium setup: the main positive and main negative (these are the thick cables that run near your controller).

• The main negative (-) is the black wire that runs down beneath the controller
• The main positive (+) is the red wire that runs to your controller
• Pro Tip: Zip-tie any accessory cables (headlights, etc.) that were already with your main positive and main negative, to stay together with them so we don't forget what was connected together when we hook everything back up later

For all the other interconnected cables (between batteries), toss them to the side.

Step 3: Remove Battery Hold Down System

The RXV hold down system has a few attachment points and they're pretty easy to remove:

• Remove three 1/2" nuts on the top plastic bracket
• Remove two T50 Torx screws on the side of the metal arch hold down (one driver side, one passenger side behind controller)
• Pull out the metal arch hold-down bracket
• Then pull out the small plastic top bracket

Note: The side T50 bolts are harder to reach than they look in pictures. Use a ratcheting Torx handle if you have one, regular tools work but it's tighter than you'd think.

Step 4: Remove Old Lead Acid Batteries (The Heavy Part)

Safety Warning: Each 12V battery weighs 85 pounds. Be extra careful lifting these using the small tabs on them.

Use a battery strap and take your time here. You will need a battery strap for the 12V batteries (if these were 6V or 8V, we'd normally give you a hack just using any leather belt aroung your house).

Remove any old J-hooks at this time as well. Once everything is out, clean out your battery tray while you have the tray empty. And keep any loose change you find =)

Step 5: Remove Side Skirts for Cable Run Access

To properly run both your state-of-charge meter cable and wake-up button cable, you need to remove both side skirts using T45 Torx bolts (five per side). These have to come off so you can route your cables properly through the floor. Keep the T45 hardware for reinstall later.

Step 6: Remove Factory Floor Mat

Use your plastic rivet removal tool to remove all eight plastic rivets holding the floor mat. Keep all rivets in a small container or off to the side becuase you'll need them for reassembly later (and they're easy to lose).

Step 7: Remove Cup Holder Assembly (Lower Dash Trim)

Remove 3 x 10mm nuts underneath the cup holder assembly and pull up firmly to lift the cupholder assembly out of the dash. This gives you access to the lower dash area for running cables.

If you have accessories plugged into the dash like USB chargers, either unplug them or make sure you leave enough slack to work around them.

Step 8: Remove Upper Dash Trim

Remove 4 x T30 Torx screws holding the upper dash trim. Note: when you loosen this trim, the entire front cowl becomes loose and will want to fall forward onto the floor. So keep your hand on the cowl as the last T30 Torx comes out, or have someone help hold it for you.

Once all four screws are loose, gently lower the cowl and support it (use an empty box for this). Be careful not to damage your headlight connections.

Step 9: Disconnect Dash Electrical Connections

Disconnect these connections behind the dash:

• Ignition switch connector
• Factory charge meter
• Light connections

Take a photo of any connections with more than one wire before disconnecting. You need to plug them back in the exact same order or your lights (or other accessories) may not work the same as they did before.

Once the connections are loose, you can fully pull your upper dash away from the front of the cart.

Step 10: Remove Factory Charge Meter

With upper dash trim now free. Flip it over, and remove the factory charge meter. To do this, squeeze the tabs on both sides of the factory charge meter and push it forward through the dash opening. You won't need this anymore since the new ECO Battery SOC Meter replaces it.

Step 11: Create Wake-Up Button Hole and Install Components

Mark and drill a 5/8" hole in the dash trim for your wake-up button (wherever you would like for it to live). We like to position it somewhere near the state-of-charge meter hole.

Clean up any plastic burrs from drilling so everything sits flush, then mount the wake-up button in your new hole using the included nut on the back side. The state of charge meter goes right in the factory charge meter location and mounts with the included bracket and 7mm nuts (fits perfectly!).

Step 12: Route The Wake-Up Button Cable

Take your wake-up button cable and route the non-button side of the cable down through the rear of the dash, under the floor channel, and back up into the battery bay. Leave most of the slack in the battery bay to keep things looking clean.

Connect the non-button side of the wake-up cable to the orange communication connector that comes with your battery system. Your wake-up button is now mounted and pre-wired.

Step 13: Route State of Charge Meter Cable

The state of charge meter has two connectors on it. We like to tape them together with painter's tape to protect them (and make routing easier), then route the cable starting in the battery bay, down through the floor channel, and back up behind the dash (same path as the wake-up button cable, in reverse).

Leave the slack in the battery bay for now. And leave the connections loose, we'll hook them up later.

Step 14: Reconnect Dash Wiring

Reconnect all your dash connections:

• Two new state of charge meter connectors, into the back of the new SOC meter
• Wake-up button connector into the wake up button
• Ignition switch back as it was
• Light connections (remember the color order: black on top, red in middle, yellow on bottom)
• Any other connections you had

Step 15: Put Dash Trim Back Together

Reinstall the upper dash trim (four T30 Torx screws), cup holder assembly (three 10mm nuts), and floor mat (all eight plastic rivets).

Reinstall both side skirts (five T45 Torx bolts per side).

Step 16: Install New 110V Universal Charge Port

Remove the factory charge port using four T27 Torx screws.

• With the charge port loose, we will need to disconnect the wiring to pull the unit out
• Cut the zip tie holding together the wires behind your factory charge port
• Set the drive-off-safety wire (blue wire and connector) to the side in the bay, we will need this and come back to this later
• Remove the black and red charge port wire (may need to cut the zip ties we made earlier on the main positive and main negative cables)
• Pull the factory charge port out of your cart

Install the new 110V charge receptacle using the same holes and screws. Pretty straightforward swap here.

Note: You can now charge your cart anywhere with a standard household outlet! No more being tied to your garage charger. One of the major benefits of going lithiuim.

Step 17: Install On-Board Charger

Mount the on-board charger in the battery tray using self-tapping screws through the four mounting tabs.

We recommend mounting the back center of the battery tray. Once it is centered, you will want to position the battery:

• 1" from side ridges (on each side) to the sides of the charger plate.
• 1 and 3/4" from the main center ridge to the front of the charge plate.
• If you're in the right spot, you'll end up behind the second plastic rib in the tray, and pretty dead center in the back.
• This keeps your new OBC clear of where the battery will sit.

With the charger installed, you can now connect the charger cable to your new charge port.

Step 18: Install Voltage Reducer (Highly Recommended)

While not necessary for a Lithium Battery setup, if you have any accessorries at all (and since your RXV likely has headlights from factory) installing a voltage reducer is important to prevent frying your accessories. The reducer takes your battery's 48V output and converts it to 12V to power all your low-voltage items (USB ports, lights, etc.).

Mount the voltage reducer in the rear corner of the battery tray using self-tapping screws. Once mounted, connect the voltage reducer to the voltage reducer harness (that came with the unit).

Step 19: Wire Up Voltage Reducer to Accessories

With the voltage converter connected, we need to prep the remaining loose wires on it to be connected.

1. Cut and strip the red and black wires from the voltage reducer. Also cut and strip your existing accessory wires (headlights, etc.).
2. Use butt connectors to join:
   • Red voltage reducer wire to red accessory wire
   • Black voltage reducer wire to black/negative accessory wire

The voltage reducer also has:

• Small yellow wire: Goes to the battery positive
• Small black wire: Goes to the battery negative
• Orange wire: Goes to your solenoid (this tells the reducer to turn on when cart turns on)

Step 20: Prep Drive-Off Safety Wire

We now need to make our blue drive-off safety wire long enough to hook to our new battery. Grab the blue drive off safety wire in the bay (we set it aside earlier in Step 16). If your drive-off-safety wire is inside a plastic loom, peel the loom back to make some slack.

Once the blue wire has enough slack, cut the end off (with the connector on it). Strip the end of the wire back and install a ring terminal. This wire connects to the positive terminal of your new lithium battery. Set it aside until final hookup.

Step 21: Access Controller/Solenoid

Use your plastic rivet tool to remove the three plastic rivets on the factory controller cover (with the warning sticker on it, near the run/tow switch).

Carefully remove the controler cover and set your rivets aside as well (we're putting this all back on in a minute).

Step 22: Connect Orange Voltage Reducer Wire to Solenoid

Find the 13mm nut on your solenoid (it's the only nut with a bar going down to the controller). Loosen the nut and remove, place the orange wire from your voltage reducer on the stud, and then retighten down. Put the controller cover back on.

Your voltage reducer now has power.

Step 23: Install Battery Mounting Bracket

We now need to install our mounting bracket in the middle of battery tray. For ECO Battery, we will be 4¼" from both edges of the battery tray ridges (this ensures perfect centering). We will also be ¾" down from the top edge on both side ridges. Once we have found the spot, make a mark with your permanent marker. This is where we wil make our new 3/8" holes.

With your holes drilled, mount the thru-hole bracket using 1/2" bolts.

Step 24: Install Your Lithium Battery

Carefully lower that new ECO battery into the tray (so much easier than those lead-acid ones). Thread the mounting rod down through the battery and into the bracket below.

Place the mounting plate over the rod and secure with the included 9/16" nut. Then tighten down nice and firm. This is the heart of your EZGO RXV 48v Lithium Battery system!

Battery Positioning: The ECO battery should sit with terminals facing toward the controller on an RXV. Double-check positioning before fully tightening that mounting rod.

Step 25: Connect Battery Electrical (Almost There!)

Negative Terminal (using 13mm socket):

• Main negative cable
• Charger negative cable
• Voltage reducer black wire
• Any other negative accessory wires

Positive Terminal:

• Main positive cable
• Charger positive cable
• Voltage reducer yellow wire
• Drive-off safety wire (blue with ring terminal)

Step 26: Connect Communication Cables

• Plug your wake-up button connector to COM 1 port
• Plug your state of charge meter connector to COM 2 port
• Charger CAN cable to state of charge meter CAN port

Install those terminal protectors over both battery terminals when you're done (red with red, black with black).

Step 27: Fire It Up and Test

Switch from TOW to RUN mode, press and hold the battery power button until green light appears. Check that wake-up button lights up green on dash and state of charge meter shows battery percentage (it will be somewhere below 100% on any new battery).

Test forward and reverse operation.

Warning: Charge your battery to 100% before your first drive! Just like a new cell phone, you want the battery to learn its charge cycle. Your state of charge meter will likely show around 50% when first installed (this is completely normal). So plug your cart in and wait till 100% before you go drive.

Welcome to the Future: Lithium Power!

Congrats! You've just completed one of the best upgrades you can make on your EZGO RXV. An EZGO RXV Lithium Battery Conversion is about much more than just replacing your batteries. It's about reliability, performance, and peace of mind.

At $2,800 with an 10-year warranty, this kit give you professional results with an installation that most cart owners can handle in one morning. And honestly, once you experience the instant torque and consistent power delivery of lithium, you'll wonder why you waited so long to make the switch.

Need Help? We're Here for You!

If you have any questions about your EZGO RXV Lithium Conversion, don't hesitate to reach out to our Golf Cart Expert Team at 1-844-422-7884. Along with tires, we are the leaders in golf cart batteries and conversions; and we're always happy to help make sure you get the right setup for your cart and your needs. We sell more lithium conversions than anybody else online, and we guarantee your satisfaction!

Written by Alex Sturwold

Alex Sturwold is the President of Golf Cart Tire Supply, and founder of the Golf Cart Sellers marketplace. Alex is a lifelong gearhead and vehicle expert, bringing over two decades of practical experience to GCTS including serving major industrial companies, such as Carlisle, during his years as an investment banker at Merrill Lynch. A resident of beautiful Arizona, Alex enjoys hitting the trails in side-by-sides, hiking, shooting guns and driving anything with a motor strapped to it. You can find him on LinkedIn